Apple Keyboard A1243 Teardown

Written By: Roman Seibel
Published: 19/10/17
  • Comments: 20

Apple Keyboard A1243 Teardown

Published: 19/10/17

Teardown

Introduction

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    • The underside of the keyboard is affixed by a layer of adhesive that covers the entire surface. There are no screws holding the rear cover in place.

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    • A spludger preferably plastic can be used to pry the rear cover off the keyboard

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    • Open the front end of the keyboard with a prying tool.

    • Only pry at the front end of the keyboard, as there are easily damaged ribbon cables at the rear of the keyboard.

    • Using a heat gun on low setting can be used carefully to heat the rear cover and soften the adhesive. Work in sections heating and then gradually prying the sections apart.

    • Avoid using too much heat otherwise you will distort or melt the cover or other plastic parts. Do not use excessive force to remove the cover as the alloy is thin and bends easily. The keyboard will be permanently distorted.

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    • The main keyboard backplate is held in by dozens of spot welds, the only way to disassemble further is to remove them with a drill!

    • The logic board is secured with philips head screws. Two ribbon cable connect the keyboard to the logic board. Damage to a cable will result in whole sections of keyboard not functioning.

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    • There are practically no serviceable parts inside the keyboard other than the logic board but even so due to the assembly of the keyboard there are no spare parts available to buy even if you could. There is little practical reason to actually disassemble the keyboard

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    • Cypress CY7C63923 (Low-Speed USB Peripheral Controller)

    • ST 95040W (4kbit EEPROM)

    • Cypress CY7C65630-56L (Low Power USB 2.0 Hub)

    • Microchip 2026-1YM (Dual-Channel Power Distribution Switch)

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    • The yellow circled element is a Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC, a "Low-Speed USB Peripheral Controller" .

    • The blue circled element is a Cypress CY7C65630, a "Low-Power USB 2.0 Hub Controller".

    Hello folks,

    Writing just after I “opened” keyboard. DO NOT follow any recommendations. There is no way to receive your keyboard back. Nothing work. I spent 20 min to do even gentle work and got trash of parts. Yes, it is look like electronic parts were broken and all the rest peaces you need to throughout to garbage. Easy way to disassemble, no way back. Simply get new one.

    pusatyuk -

Author

Roman Seibel

Member since: 13/08/12

180 Reputation

19 comments

Any hope of replacement of a defective key switch?

Eddie Sutton -

I think I will need to open mine to replace the USB wire.

Marek Novak -

I fried one of the usb port with coil back current, the other port runs well so does the keyboard.

How do I fix that? Is there a fuse to replace?

daslolo -

One day, my keyboard stopped working, keys affected are 5tgb and 6yhn. It guess they are joined inside. No reason at all. No spill. My keyboard is hooked to an unpowered USB hub, which is hooked to my MacbookPro. I use also a logitech wired mouse attached to the USB port. When I arrived last Monday morning to my office with the mac, I plugged everything as described and the problem appeared. Now I don't know that to do to fix it. Some guys recommend springing water on it but it seems some kind of joke. I can't believe I spend so much money in this keyboard and now it doesn't work. A couple of months ago, I realised that the Magic Mouse 2 was another bummer because of it problem tracking the hand movements. I started to doubt about Apple hardware, except for the Macbook Pro, which has 5 years of intense use and never had a problem at all.

Mariano Belgrano -

Yes, washing these types of aluminum apple keyboards with water will usually resolve the problem, just pure water, and a few days of drying… it doesn’t make sense, but I have fixed a dozen of these that way before! It’s no guarantee, but it could resolve it. The reason the keys went out together is that the buttons’ are organized into columns and rows electronically. When the circuit is connected on the sixth column and the second row, that equals a 5 key. Sixth column third row would be the T key, etc. So your problem is not at the keys, but with the column contacts for those two columns. Whether cleaning them will help is anyones guess. Somehow, you have a break in the circuit for those two columns of the keyboard. It sounds like the problem will be on the logic board of the keyboard. Check for hairs or something shorting out any chips, etc.

Albert Min -

My period (full stop) key has just stoped working out of nowhere. It’s like the most important key I use as I’m constantly typing emails and URL’s. Thankfully I pulled out a brand new wireless apple keyboard that came with my iMac at time of purchase, but now I’ll either need a replacement or a fix. If I dismantle this board and get it working ill most definitely post a guide.

Joe -

i washed the keyboard and now i see it doesn't work at all

It dried on the radiator for 2 days

Károly Bakonyi -

@ Albert Min https://www.ifixit.com/User/3139679/Albe...

do you have a matrix showing the interconnections , my keyboard duplicates some keys f.i q & p both result in qp with 1 press as welle as some others . I just opened mine and set it to soak in a light detergent , will rinse tomorrow and then wait for drying to test .

bart

solos -

I am trying to replace just the silicone cup/spring of a key. I managed to remove the key cap and scissor mechanism but the cup is trapped beneath an unremovable plastic membrane. I could probably cut the membrane at the top leg or two bottom legs, leaving top or bottom attached. Has anyone successfully done this? Here’s what it looks like with tweezers inserted under the membrane:

https://i.postimg.cc/SNVwtHCd/IMG-1506-C...

Jose Sopato -

BTW I learned how to remove the parts from this video by an intrepid person who did his own tear-down:

Trying to FIX : Faulty Apple Keyboard Model A1243 purchased on eBay

https://youtu.be/zxiPxyLF8p4?t=2408

Jose Sopato -

This week, I’ve received a discarded and totally unfunctional A 1243 Apple USB keyboard.

Very sparse to no response shown in “Keyboard Viewer”.

I know these keyboards are virtually unserviceable, because completely glued together.

If, after a liquid spill e.g. some keys are unresponsive, they are toast.

Meaning: some matrix lines are cut, resulting in a quadriplegic KYBD, even if the main board is still OK.

However, my KYBD does show full functionality of its built-in USB hub ( with another USB KYBD or mouse connected to the hub).

So, the USB controller on its main board is fully functional. As is its USB cable.

Probably the Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC USB peripheral controller on the the tiny main board is shot…

Or, there is oxide on the main ribbon link between KYBD and logic board.

Just for the heck of it I will attempt to switch both main boards.

Will keep you posted as to the results.

I wonder if I will be able to effectively glue the bottom plate on again.

Bart Van Dessel -

I have a totally unfunctional A 1243 Apple USB keyboard.

These keyboards are unserviceable, because completely glued together.

If, after a liquid spill e.g. some keys are unresponsive, they are toast.

Meaning: some matrix lines are cut, resulting in a quadriplegic KYBD, even if the main board is still OK.

However, my KYBD does show full functionality of its built-in USB hub ( with another USB KYBD or mouse connected to the hub).

So, the USB controller on its main board is fully functional. As is its USB cable. The Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC USB peripheral controller on the the tiny main board is shot…

Or, there is oxide on the main ribbon link between KYBD and logic board.

I do have the same KYBD whith damaged keys/ matrix lines.

Its main board still OK, though.

Just for the heck of it I will attempt to switch both main boards.

Will keep you posted as to the results.

Whether or not this will give my KYBD full functionality remains to be seen. And if so, I wonder if I will be able to effectively glue the

it together again

Bart Van Dessel -

Sorry for a double post, I got a “ too many character notification..

Bart Van Dessel -

If you just have sticky keys because of a liquid accident, instead of trying to open it and possibly ruin it in the process, you could also try to flush it with IPA (Isopropylalcohol). You could construct a basin with alu foil if you do not have anything that fits the keyboard. Put the keys upside down and flush it a few minutes 2-3 times with 1/4 litres of IPA and help to get the liquid in and out by moving and pressing the keys..

Do not worry, the liquid will completely vaporise in 10 minuten max. DO worry about your health and only do this in a very well ventilated place without ANY possible risk of fire! NO SMOKING OR SPARKS! If available, wear rubber gloves, although temporary exposure cannot cause big harm but some people are sensitive so be aware of this.

After the flush, help to get the liquid out by swinging it out in a place where the bits of IPA that come out cannot cause any stains. Evaporation goes very quickly anyway. Best of luck and a very good chance you will repair your keyboard this way.

Bas Meijer -

I am getting no response from my keyboard whatsoever, and figured it might be the cable. Is it possible to replace the USB wire? I’ve love to know what’s likely, through with no response, there’s no telling I suppose. It has worked well for a few years, including yesterday morning. I paused in working for an hour or so, then returned, and got nothing from it. Any suggestions?

Ruth Pershing -

Do you have the pin out for the keyboard ribbon connectors?

LadmanMp4 -

My experience : I have just dismantled one … and I partialy cuted keyboard ribbons.

I used a heat gun and its gave me a little help but not enough. Glue are very very strong.

My advice : AS POSSIBLE, DON’T TRY TO OPEN IT BY THE TOP.

Suggestion : maybe a spray to disolve glue could be usefull too.

freed -

Unless damage is from a drop, pulled wire inside connector cable or other damage from severe action - most likely some goober, liquid or scratchy things went down the key sides. Here's the case with one still in damage mode and just undergoing operation.

Damage is asdfghj which seems interesting. Non working. The action taken is a hot bath jet spray down of the entire keyboard, usb ports and plug. Next, is a spray saturation of "contact" and electrical board cleaner across the sides of the damaged keys. A brisk shake out upside down, taps on the backside - all clears out most liquid. Now it is sitting in the sink with the corner in the drain hole.

If it works repairing the keys we're onto something. The topwater is fine if a contact spray gets used cause all the topwater will be spread out.

Jenny -

Only reason to disassemble it is to clean it!

TIGER SUS -