iPhone 7 Battery Replacement

Written By: Paige Reisman
  • Comments: 341
iPhone 7 Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

33

Time Required

30 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 7 with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to completely detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

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    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase -

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing -

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer -

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny -

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman -

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez -

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan -

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert -

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb -

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard -

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS -

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS -

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci -

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss -

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss -

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K -

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    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

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    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

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    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

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    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki -

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    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth -

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko -

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges -

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B -

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P -

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner -

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc -

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown -

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron -

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker -

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic -

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John -

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble -

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble -

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble -

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble -

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C -

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    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm -

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica -

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson -

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner -

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri -

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    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy -

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill -

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman -

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood -

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard -

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat -

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers -

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk -

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz -

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo -

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner -

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd -

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf -

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony -

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi -

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    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber -

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    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries -

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    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper -

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    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers -

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner -

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward -

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    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

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    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel -

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert -

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys -

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys -

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon -

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    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve -

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst -

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright -

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader -

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 -

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos -

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage -

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples -

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson -

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen -

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral -

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke -

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio -

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony -

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett -

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo -

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres -

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze -

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher -

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling -

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x -

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg -

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark -

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux -

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard -

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack -

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    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin -

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno -

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz -

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb -

  18. kagyl1qcW4AtoBlf
    kagyl1qcW4AtoBlf
    ewZDHDrtMTUxnlnK
    NUEP2PSRVV54cedx

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich -

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason -

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller -

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi -

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM -

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd -

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills -

  19. aMorTfedGgH3rI5R
    aMorTfedGgH3rI5R
    j6YutYie6sBNvKB2
    DTNCSTyuPgJxNIkh

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist -

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan -

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek -

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark -

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty -

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom -

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn -

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta -

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart -

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. -

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard -

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey -

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes -

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria -

  20. bmgfPpWHNVhhLV2o
    bmgfPpWHNVhhLV2o
    krsGsMngtAk6HqyE
    XC5yVbnZluTweVIj

    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva -

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h -

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson -

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer -

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro -

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon -

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn -

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell -

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 -

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist -

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze -

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason -

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving -

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones -

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome -

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu -

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez -

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai -

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F -

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J -

  21. uCv2qq5X3dLp5gXA
    uCv2qq5X3dLp5gXA
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    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger -

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui -

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew -

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell -

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily -

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia -

  22. GgLw2SeVMeWxZEj3

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley -

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui -

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost -

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J -

  23. EANVBZGXJyqVmVFq

    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil -

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar -

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

    I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J -

  24. 4KWmdocYM1eJoNce
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    • Remove the vent.

  25. OWmPqLT1F1MBogRu
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

    I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J -

  26. Myl4kW5JSOANhHPO

    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón -

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb -

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze -

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil -

    another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

    To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

    Cunning Stunt -

  27. MOotTqJsMU3PlhtU
    MOotTqJsMU3PlhtU
    pKLKmYAS6gFFWStc

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  28. K4PsVe4WLmdBxgCG
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    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

    I found using the blunt end of a spudger to roll the adhesive strip off worked better than trying to get hold of it with tweezers.

    Peter Gray -

  29. rBKKelsdUfkxXsqM
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    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

    I can recommend preheating - first phone attempted without preheating both strips broke almost instantly, but this time heating the back of phone until battery felt about 40 degrees made for a smooth removal, saving me ages prying it out with cards…

    Jesse de Vries -

    Definitely preheat. Don’t even bother trying to pull out the tabs without preheating the back.

    Josh Baxter -

  30. WdC4FCiSgJQfln4g
    WdC4FCiSgJQfln4g
    ijSLCSKuaoEVlDJX
    Fu6iiGsxXNEfcE1s

    • If this is your first time removing an iPhone battery adhesive strip, refer to the video in the following step before beginning.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    My adhesive strips tore almost immediately. I ended up using an old membership card as a tool to pry the battery out. I must admit, I did deform the battery - seemed almost unavoidable.

    Dan -

    Same here, I had to work it out with the guitar pic they give you.

    greggammon -

    I GENTLY heated the back case with my heat gun and BOTH strips came out PERFECTLY.

    Mike Gill -

    How do you keep it from wrinkling without tearing

    James Green -

    It always tears for me too. They make it look super easy in the videos ;)

    Anthony -

    Worked for me by setting the phone on a sock with rice (heated for 30 seconds) while I messed with these. Pulled the white part SLOWLY.

    mason -

    After a past experience with the adhesive strips immediately tearing on an iPhone 4, I knew to heat the battery with a hair dryer before pulling on the strip. After heating the battery, I was able to pull the adhesive strip without any problems.

    Mark Lieberman -

    First one worked perfectly as it was seen in the video. The second one teared immediately. I lifted the battery a little by a spudger and used the tweezers to pull out the white part and grabbed with my fingers and gently pulled it slowly, which worked.

    Tomoharu Eguchi -

    A very good way I found when I, as probably many others, made the straps snap; a way I definitely will apply next time if I do this: use a spudger and “spinn” the white tejp out. Working with the hands trying to pull it out was not ideal… So:

    Stick the tejp on/around the spudger and roll it up/out on the tip on the spudger. Once it grips hold on the spudger and you roll it, it almost eats it way out.

    Otherwise it would have taken me ages to get it out but yes, if it snaps (or from start) you can get hold of it under the battery then you definitely have a substitute solution here.

    Johan Nilsson -

    The spinning spudger worked really well! That and heating it first made it a breeze.

    JoeP -

    Easy does it. By pull carefully in a low angel, especially in the beginning, you prevent it from snapping. Do not yank it.

    steinmb -

    Gentle heating of the back to soften the adhesive and then I used tweezers to wind the adhesive strip out spudger would probably work well too. When starting, do not pull the strip out more than an inch or two before winding the strip back around the tweezers or spudger and keep the angle low as you pull straight, which is why removing the Taptic Engine is recommended. As you go along, the strips get wider and less likely to snap and you can pull a little further each time before winding it up. This all takes a while since the adhesive stretches a lot, (like a LOT), but slow and easy works best. Prying the battery out is not fun.

    Randall Ottman -

    +1 for hairdryer & rolling on the spudger!

    Pete Stephens -

    I use iso propyl alcohol applied with an eye dropper to the battery at a 10n degree lift and let the alcohol seep through for about 30 to 60 seconds and hen remove the adhesive It works a treat

    David Howard -

    One strip tore rather quickly after pulling, the other survived the whole procedure.

    I then used the tweezers, coming from the side where the strip was removed properly (and also heatened up the phone a bit, and I was able to grab it again. On the second try I pulled it out entirely

    Guenter -

    Heating the back of the phone, before hand helps 100% to loosen the adhesive. Work on pulling slowly and close the edge of the phone. I wore a glove while holding the phone and heating it.

    Jorge Davila -

    I tried to do this on a very smashed phone and the battery caught fire lol

    OllieGamer2019 -

  31. Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

  32. ce43yWjGQOSREoXb
    ce43yWjGQOSREoXb
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    Cj3hU1KeBPAAHDgL

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).

    • After about a minute, gently lift the battery.

    • Do not insert your spudger in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. It should be slightly too warm to touch comfortably.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • A piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set. Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

    As a professional tooth carpenter, I stand by this suggestion

    Anthony -

    Bij mij brak ook een van de kleefstrips , ik heb toen de batterij een heel klein beetje opgelicht en er wat isopropyl (alcohol) laten tussenlopen en dan een halve minuut gewacht . Vervolgens heb ik heel voorzichtig in combinatie van een Plastic card en een iSesamo opening tool (deze zijn beiden hier te koop bij iFixit), de batterij kunnen los wrikken zonder dat deze beschadigd of geplooid was.

    clbr -

    As a person who has previously destroyed an Iphone trying to remove the battery, Why not do the alcohol and/or heat right from the start?

    Paul -

    The dental floss was helpful, but I also used a tongue depressor to gently pry the battery off.

    Kevin A -

    One of mine broke. I was able to raise the battery enough to grab the strip with tweezers.

    NitWit -

    Nitwit was smart, lifting the battery enough to grab a broken strip worked for me

    Trevor McCarren -

  33. jpZvpYWr1P5gookl

    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the ribbon cable.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    After I replace the battery, should I put on the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive and then follow the steps in that guide to reassemble?

    Victor Bui -

    Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link here for it. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist -

    ==> Step 18 !

    VauWeh -

    There should be directions as to how to locate the new battery in the case! There is enough freedom of movement that the battery could be glued back into the case and not be able to make the battery connection. Some temporary spacers would be a great idea.

    I put the Taptic Engine back in the case first. The battery seems to rest right against it, so it becomes a physical reference point. I cut out a piece of the plastic cover that came on the battery & put it over the battery connector mating point on the circuit board to keep the battery disconnected until necessary.

    Robert Rodenburg -

    I contacted the battery first, using the connector and cable as a reference point. I wanted to make sure the cable from the battery did not put any stress on the battery connector after I glued the battery to the case.

    steinmb -

    There should be a STEP 30 Instructions to refer you to the link for instructions for installing the REPLACEMENT SEALS. Or at least a big note saying to install the seal now before re-assembling

    David Reese -

    Bought kit, followed all the instructions, and now the Touch ID and home button don’t work on my phone, rendering it useless. Connections are fine, no obvious cable tears, I’ve checked and rechecked all connections … not to mention, what component did I even touch to render home button useless since it’s on the display screen? This is going to cost me. What a horrible experience that’s taken up 4 hours and cost me time and money. Can’t recommend just shipping phone back to Apple enough. One of the most disappointing experiences with a product in ages. And all just to replace a freakin’ battery …

    John Cagle -

    I have the same issue :(

    radeise -

    I have the same odd behavior. Is there a solution to this?

    antonioamaddio -

    CAREFULLY connect all cables and test it before putting back together. I reseated the long and short cable connectors a couple of times when it appeared the button wasn't working. I was successful, but I knew going in that Apple didn't design these to be repaired by the owner. So I knew I may be out the money and in need of a phone if I screwed something up. That's just the way it works.

    Some Idiot -

    I am fairly certain that the home button no longer works because when you plug in the battery with the other cables disconnected, it breaks the paring off the home button and logic board as a safety precaution with Touch ID. To repair it, you need to go to an Apple Store, or you could replace the button but not have Touch ID

    I also did this to my phone and now I'm stuck with the touch assist button until I can get it fixed D:

    little timmy -

    Hello guyz. Please help me. I tried to replace my iphone 7 battery. When i was removing the 4 tri wing screws on the cover that is covering the battery cable Etc, I used many screwdriver because at first I didn’t know that those are tri wing screws. I ordered .6 tri wing screwdriver. I successfully removed the 2 screws but the other 2 cannot remove. I think they are stripped or they are damaged because of what i did pn my first try. I dont know what to do. My iphone battery health is 73 percent. I want them to be removed but i dont know how. Pleaseee help mee guyss. (Sorry if my english is bad, im from Philippines) please help me

    Ryan Sacramento -

    The battery placement during install needs to be spot on or else the connector won’t line up. There is no wiggle room in the cable

    afabobo -

    In step 29 there is the way to cerrectly align the battery by connecting it first, then adhering it, and finally disconnect it.

    Daniele Carminati -

    The heating via hair dryer didn’t work as expected for me. Instead, this video worked perfectly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e743HCkx...

    Brandon Francis -

    Wait. What? You gave me 30 steps on how to remove the old/faulty battery. Where are the steps showing how to install the new battery and put everything back together?

    Bob Satmary -

    Do you really need to remove the taptic engine and barometric vent? Can’t you do it without removing those components?

    ClaytonM223 -

    Did this back in 2021 and it took a lot of patience to do screws were one of the hardest things to deal with being so tiny. Guide was good.

    Not for someone who doesn’t have patience and determination to fix things themselves. I did crack my screen trying to lift it with suction device and felt smudged wasn’t good enough to get underneath phones screen while pulling on suction cup.

    Good overall fix it guide just plan on few hours to do.

    DJSan -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Paige Reisman

Member since: 07/04/14

23586 Reputation

120 comments

Does this effectively negate the waterproof feature of the new iPhones?

Tubby -

yes , unless it is sealed back with new waterproof tape, which almost no one has yet

Atronx -

No you can buy the replacement. See the above guide for a link on how to do that and iFixIt sells them. Recommend buying more than one because installation is tricky - must get it aligned perfectly though the spluger and pointy tweezers can help reposition minor slipups.

lovemymac -

The back adhesive is available on ifixit. So you can make it water proof-ish again.

Recall, an original iPhone is far from waterproof after only a month usage.

Guenter -

iPhone 6 take battery off put new one now not changing at all but saying yes but no going up new battery saying all time 6@.all time

ant2101 -

Is there any way to put back the waterproof sealing after changing the battery for iPhone 7? Thanks

Steven Tanda Putra -

I too would like to know this! It's a shame they don't elaborate as such. There is this part here - Display Adhesive iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive which I assume needs to be put on after the screen is taken off but this guide says it's not needed? But for a screen repair it is? Does it get placed on the phone housing or screen? Thanks

blitzn -

Yep, we have a guide for replacing the seal (display adhesive) now. I don't know how waterproof the seal will be afterward, but I think it's worth doing regardless.

Jeff Suovanen -

Most of the adhesives that are being sold are not rated to be waterproof, and are not the geniune OEM brand materials.

Atronx -

Probably too late, but there are many vendors that sell the waterproof seal for iPhone7. Use alchohol and tweezers to remove the old seal and glue, align the new seal and stick it. Compared to the battery change, it’s a breeze.

hiroo yamagata -

Yes it is. Have a look at the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide

steinmb -

Hi!

Now I got a huge problem concerning the HomeButton/ForceTouch-function.

It does not work anymore. I think it's a safety measure by Apple to prevent people from changing their batteries.

ANY HELP, please? :(

87schiller -

Those functions aren't related to the battery. Double-check your work, reseat the cable connectors, and inspect the cables and home button hardware carefully for damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I know this is a month late, but hopefully this helps someone. On the 7, 3D Touch and the home button are routed through the same flex cable that comes out from underneath the metal backing of the display and plugs into the board.

This flex cable is very easy to pull and damage when taking the screen off for the first time. In most situations you won't see this damage because it will be underneath the metal backing of the display.

If this same thing happens to you, you'll unfortunately need a screen replacement to fix it.

Cody Dover -

My problem is with the 4 tri screws holding the 1st bracket down. They just spin, all 4 of them. The screw heads aren't stripped, as they all spin, they just don't back out. I've applied backpressure in hopes that would help lift the screws, but no luck.

Jeff Hurst -

Is Iphone 7 battery connector same as battery connector of Iphone 6S or other models?

Tumen -

No. Different connectors.

Ben -

Might want to update your website.

iHelpU.Tech is currently working on obtaining certifications from Apple Inc. Currently none of our repairs are backed by Apple Inc.

obed -

You dont have to remove the Taptic Engine but it gives you more room to work with the glue.

nicolay.94 -

Hello there, I got a dead iPhone 7, so I tested the battery, and the only “weird” thing.. is that the battery is rated 3.8v… and on this one.. im having a reading of 4.1V…. maybe this overpowered issue is preventing the iPhone to turn on???

jbermudez27 -

So, I changed the battery of my iPhone 7 with the kit provided by IFIXIT a couple of days ago, and cononutBattery is reporting that the battery is already at 95% (1862 out of 1960 mAh), with only 1 charge cycle. Is this normal?

Federico Baier -

Hi Federico

Did you try the following tip?

For optimal performance after completing the guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Takehiro -

nice video but if possible upload a pdf file

thank you very much…………….

Ali Zain -

The step by step guide can be converted to a pdf by selecting Options>Download PDF.

Sam Goldheart -

in this website can i have mobile and tab schematics ?

Ali Zain -

This is a truly fantastic account of how to do this. Well done.

I had to abandon when the kit I was supplied did not include a tri screwdriver but I watched the engineer finish my work and it was exactly as shown here.

hdisgreat -

mnvery east to follow quide but i almoust did burn down my phone when i was removing battery it cathed on fire and i have no idea did i puncture it or what.

Samuli Karppinen -

In any such venture, when dealing with precision components. DON’T RUSH, if you have any issue with hands that tremor for whateverr reason when handinlng small items, DON’T TRY THIS, LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WITH STEADY HANDS !!

Shaun O'Connor -

My iPhone 7 wasn't not charging. So, After searching on Google, I found this guide "iPhone 7 not charging". And, with this guide I get to know about that, my iPhone battery got damaged. And, My iPhone warranty also got expired. So, I have decided to replace the battery by myself. And, this guide really helped me to replace my iPhone battery. Just want to say thanks to you. :)

nagarakshya -

Can you pull the battery adhesive tabs without removing the Taptic Engine? Anyone tried that?

Balle -

@balleklorin You certainly can, but you’re much more likely to break the adhesive strips that way. You want to pull them at as low an angle as possible, and with the Taptic Engine installed you’ll have to pull them at nearly 90 degrees. My advice is not to take shortcuts, but it’s your phone and your rules! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi ! I want to do this repair but I read online that if I use a non-original battery Apple’s software will detect it and will slow down the phone (like it does for the damaged original battery).

Is it still true or is it fixed in the current IOS ?

Quentin barbry -

Not true at all. As long as you have a high-quality battery, the iPhone’s performance is just as good as with a brand-new battery from Apple. If you have any doubts, you can verify the performance by benchmarking it with the GeekBench app.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi everyone, I’ve replaced my iPhone 7 Battery and for some reason i am still seeing the old battery readings (same percentage and same battery health percentage 80%) on battery settings. Will this fix after the battery gets calibrated?

Thanks.

Juan Fonseca -

my home button stopped working. Any ideas how to fix this ?

Dries Van de Velde -

I‘ve done it step by step, everything went well. everything works, except touchID wont work.

could anyone tell me what the reason could be?

thank you lads.

davidaigner -

Fun repair but why did apple change the battery screws to tri point… tri point suck!

[deleted] -

Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link for it here in this guide. I had to go looking for it. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

minimalist -

super détail pour les vis et leurs tailles

ca va m’ aider , car au démontage rien etait fixé, et il en manque 2 ( au moins 12 vis en promenades)

donc avec le kit commandé je pourrai m aider des différents tuto pour retrouver leurs emplacements

cordialement marchal

Gros Lutin -

Excellent guide, but may I make a couple of suggestions:

1) in step 18 this guide should strongly recommend that anyone doing the waterproof sealant replacement MUST watch the linked “iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement” guide FIRST considering that it does require an additional tool (no, I did not have enough pennies on me to do the recommended heat treatment followed by weight-pressing the reassembled iPhone assisted by said pennies).

2) also in step 18, you could point out that the forward camera assembly at the top of the front plate of the iPhone 7 has a hooked ridge that must be fitted into the bottom plate for the re-assembly to work at all. Personally I had NOT noticed that, so when I tried to reassemble mine I hadn’t tried to make sure that the ridge was properly placed. Could you add a picture here of that ridge and perhaps recommend that everyone working on disassembly that they should see how it works so they can recall it upon re-assembly.

Arthur Maruyama -

I agree. Reassembly is NOT the reverse of the many steps! That ridge or plastic edge MUST be slid into first. Opening the iPhone doesn’t reveal that. Careful, because the waterproof glue can catch the battery cable too. Aligning the battery by connecting the battery cable/ribbon helps BUT be careful and remember to disconnect the battery BEFORE reconnecting the two data cables (Again, this would be obvious if the steps or reassembly pics were included. Number of steps = 60 more realistically because reassembly is just as important and risky!

lovemymac -

BTW: when I first completed my re-assembly, when I first looked at my screen there was a set of greyish bands that covered about 1/3rd of the screen. Not so dark that clearly blocked the use of those parts of the screen but rather noticable. I shrugged my shoulders, thinking that perhaps there was some internal damage that I couldn’t help having done.

But less than 24 hours after that, that banding has been considerably reduced (covering less than 10%) AND it is much less grey. It is such that I must bring up an app like Notes in order to have a mostly blank white screen in order to see what remains, so perhaps this was merely an artifact left by the ending heating I did to “cure” the waterproof adhesive, and over time it will disappear entirely.

Arthur Maruyama -

after doing this fix ive gotten a message - unable to activate touch id on this iphone —-its an iphone 7

Ryan D'mello -

super! merci

Ali Hadjeres -

Home button not working after battery replacement.

karllittau -

Ugh. Touch ID not working after replacing battery — I figure I damaged the cable attached to the screen. I hard rebooted (down volume + power) and it didn’t help. Sad. Everything else ok.

mason -

Thanks for the guide. Very helpful on two iPhones

For some reason i forgot to use the suction cup but was still able to open the phone without much difficulty (so don’t worry about needing iopeners etc. )

Of course one of my battery strips snapped, but with a bit of effort and pointed tweezers under the battery i managed to grab it after a few attempts and fully remove it.

Although you could do this without removing the screen, you will need to remove it to place a new sealant strip around the edge.

Stuart -

Just completed changing the battery on my Father-in-law's iPhone 7. He had purchased the phone used and I suspect the battery had been replaced previously as there was no adhesive seal holding the display to the case. In addition one of the screws holding the bracket was missing. Nonetheless the procedure went very well. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The most difficult part of this project was removing the battery from the case as the adhesive broke almost immediately. Fortunately the tips that are in that step made removing the battery easy. Bottom line, read the instructions ahead of time, watch the video and TAKE YOUR TIME! Good luck!

Lon Adams -

I used this guide with the ifixit replacement kit and it went very well. I do wish though that the guide gave advice on how to install the new adhesive gasket when reassembling.

Thomas -

Hey Thomas! Glad to hear that everything went well. Sorry to leave you hanging on the adhesive install, we do have a guide but it’s a little hidden. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

Taylor Dixon -

I followed every step. Replaced the battery. Played backwards every step. Now I am stuck with the Apple Logo slowly flashing on & off. I think I just killed my iPhone7. My Mac does not ‘see’ my phone when I connect it to iTunes.

Jeffery Barbour -

This guide doesn’t really explain how to reapply the display assembly adhesive, which is necessary to restore the iPhone 7’s water resistance. As previously mentioned, check out this guide.

Anthony -

i am not being able to do it… I have heated up the phone, to smooth the glue… but the cover doesn’t me off

matilde_napoleao -

Same problem brother. Were you able to remove the screen?

pranavdurai10 -

Good instructions. Two things that would be nice to add to reassembly would be how to apply the adhesive and seal.

Tom Fields -

My iphone fell in the toilet and was there maybe 5 seconds. I dried it and let it rest but then (I know) tried to to do things. The next day (I took it to a TekDry machine and they put it through for two half hour plus periods. After the first half hour, the start screen came back for a maybe a minute. (I almost paid.) Then nothing. I brought it home and plugged it in to charge it. After 5 hours (?) it began to flash- It was like a living creature trying to breathe- It would light up- then go dark- many times. I tried a hard reset and think I managed to turn it off. Now it is in a vertical position, off the charger. This is a newly refurbished phone. (I had it for a day)- I am wondering where I could take it to in Seattle for someone to open it up. It will turn on even now. Or should I give it a decent burial? I am in my 70s and techno-challenged. Any advice, expressions of gentle derogation or approval, are welcome.

Lyn Coffin -

Getting the adhesive to loosen was the hardest and most frustrating part of this with me trying it multiple times for a few days. Simply “warming up” the phone did not work, I had to make it really, really hot in order to lift the phone a fraction of a millimeter with the whole thing flying around the room and me hitting myself in the face with the suction cup multiple times. Using a thinner metal plunger did the trick, but scratched my case. Nevertheless, it was the only way to open up that beast. A third hand would have been be nice for that job x)

Wilk Polarny -

Me too. I stopped and bought the tool that has two suction cups and looks like pliers. It allowed me to gently squeeze, release, squeeze and eventually it began to separate. Also, that tool kept me from pulling to hard or opening too wide thus saving the ribbon connections. The iFixIt heat tool worked better than a hairdryer.

lovemymac -

hat geklappt, danke für die Anleitung!

LG Andreas von studi kompass

Andreas Baumann -

Hello. Do you ship this battery replacement kit overseas? I`m from the philippines.

pamiho -

Completed. This is now the second 7 that I have successfully replaced the battery on.

Kevin McNamara -

I have to agree with some of the other comments - the re-assembly instructions might have helped!!! Instead of having to switch between guides to figure out how and when to apply the screen adhesive. I successfully dismantled the iPhone, replaced the battery, got through the majority of the re-assembly, realised the instructions hadn’t included the screen adhesive, searched for the instructions, then re-disconnect the screen AGAIN, apply the screen adhesive, re-assemble the iPhone completely this time, only to find I’d broken the display at some point!!!

Andy Pounder -

Perfect install. Now phone is dead.

eddyfreemail -

I missed the “forced restart” after reassembly. That created some angst for me wondering where the trusty white Apple logo was hiding. I reread the notes and found the forced restart. All is good. Super nice tutorial. Many thanks,

Travis Witherington -

I just replaced a swollen battery on an iPhone7. I purchased the iFixIt kit that included the battery and all necessary tools for $35. Everything went well in the replacement. I’m glad I watched the vid on replacing the case adhesive FIRST! A little advise; 1) Read through the entire replacement steps at least twice. 2) Watch the videos for battery replacement AND adhesive application BEFORE starting. 3) TAKE YOUR TIME! Work slowly and uninterrupted. 4) Be organized with the screw/part placements. I do wish there were guide marks inside the case for exact battery placement. My placement was ‘off’ about 1/32 of an inch, it made connecting the battery a little tricky. But I persevered and now the phone works great! Thank you iFixIt for saving me LOTS of money on a shop repair ($100+) or a even more on a replacement iphone ($1000+)!!

TByrd -

I just replaced a swollen battery on an iPhone7. I purchased the iFixIt kit that included the proper battery and all necessary tools for $35 + shipping. Great news! Everything went well in the replacement. A little advise to you DIY types; 1) Read through the entire replacement steps at least twice. 2) Watch the videos for battery replacement AND adhesive application BEFORE starting. 3) TAKE YOUR TIME! Work slowly and uninterrupted. 4) Be organized with the screw/part placements. I do wish there were guide marks inside the case for EXACT battery placement. My placement was ‘off’ about 1/32 of an inch, it made connecting the battery a little tricky. But I persevered and now the phone works great! Thank you iFixIt for saving me LOTS of money on a shop repair ($100+) or a even more on a replacement iphone ($1000+)!!

TByrd -

I’ve made it, after all. How dare you not saying that one need new adhesive strips and sealing AT THE BEGINNING of this instruction or OFFER IT IN THE INTRODUCTION as all the other stuff, I’ve asked!!!

Axel Moering -

Great kit and tutorial, I had it done in one shot without buying any extra strips! Just go slow and you’ll get there eventually. Oh and, keep the hairdryer nearby, it will be your bff for this! Good luck and many thanks to the people in the comments as your warnings have been really helpful!!

Anthony Phuong -

Worked OK. Hard bits is screen removal - I used very narrow screwdriver. Advise using piece of A4 with step numbers to place various screws and parts on as you remove. Some very tiny screws in there.

Matt Franey -

I followed all the steps perfectly and the battery shorted out (the back heated up really hot and the phone wouldn’t turn on). Then I tried to do it all again but the pentalobe driver is not biting into the screws anymore so I couldn’t open the case.

Samuel Sharmat -

I replaced the battery and the Home Button no longer works. The are a few other comments posted on this here and a long chain in the iPhone 7 section. I have done a lot of troubleshooting to include reseating all the connectors , loosening the middle screw over the Home Button, hard resets, etc. No luck. I have done quite a few phone repairs successfully and have had good luck. I was very careful with this battery replacement and don’t know how I could have damaged a cable. Some repairmen suspect the heat application to loosen the seal. It’s the only reasonable explanation I can think of. I now have an iPhone 4 that looks like an iPhone 7!

mwbenson -

Thank you for the guide, it was really detailed (Y)

Kristóf -

Thank you so very much for publishing this very helpful instructions. They helped me sucessfully install a battery and save $33 doing it myself.

Scott Davis -

J’ai changé la batterie sans difficulté avec ce tutoriel. En revanche, la batterie se décharge rapidement même si le téléphone n’est pas utilisé, et même la lorsque le téléphone est éteint. C’est curieux et je ne sais pas d’où vient la panne: de la batterie ou du téléphone?

Pierre-alexandre98880 -

I replaced the battery, and put everything back together. When I turned on the phone I received “Touch_ID_Issue_Notification. Touch ID and home button do not work even though the screen and home button are the original. I rechecked all connection and ribbons and all red seated correctly and unharmed. I hard reset the phone (volume down/power button) and nothing works.

Anyone have any ideas oh to correct this issue?

mojeda118 -

me too i’m sorry to hear it. not sure what to do now haha f*ck

Daniel Harrity -

Thanks for tanking my home button.

Simple battery replacement causes home and haptics to stop working on an iPhone 7

Put a warning up.

BTC Repository -

you too?? any way to fix this?

Daniel Harrity -

my home button won’t work

Daniel Harrity -

Home button does not work after fitting new battery. I was very careful to not strain the leads while doing the job and have checked the leads with a magnifying glass and there is not a mark on them. Tried re-fitting old battery and all the other suggestions to be found on Google search but still nothing. Is there any diagnostic software to test it?

mrmrst -

what is the “vent” for? on the opposite side of the main loudspeaker

Simon Linden -

It is for the microphone.

Daniele Carminati -

“according to Apple it's a "barometric vent." Apparently adding all the waterproofing to the iPhone 7 and 7 Plus meant that it was more of a sealed box, and so to be able to have an accurate and working barometer, Apple used that space. The barometer is the thing that allows a phone to measure altitude, and Apple points out that on the iPhone 7 it can measure even minor changes like climbing a flight of stairs.”

https://www.theverge.com/2016/9/16/12941...

gowski -

Very straightforward guide. It took me 1h20m, although a lot of time was spent on cleaning the old adhesive. Now the iPhone is up and running as new. Many thanks to the author and all the contributors from the comments!

Happy fixing everyone!

Nicolai Bogaciuc -

After putting the battery, how long do you recommend charging it?

Julio Cesar Ortiz Soto -

When it reeaches 100%, leave it charging for another 2 hours. See our wiki.

Daniele Carminati -

My home button stop working aloso after changing the battery. There is a workaround with the Accessibility setting

Go to Settings > General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch (on)

Luis -

Update : the home button started working after a complete depletion of the battery and a complete charge. However, the touch ID with the fingerprint dosn’t seem to work.

Luis -

Slightly OT: Good Video, but could you please remove the underlying drum loop? It adds needless rush and distracts from the topic.

Heinrich Rebehn -

Hmmph.. It seems after I attempted this repair, the phone refused to connect to the internet (though it would connect to wifi and bluetooth just fine, as well as cellular) The cellular (as in sms and calls) works fine, but any sense of data via wifi or cellular just seems to no longer work. Ive reseated the connectors for the antennae but to no avail.. I do have to note the logic board area is getting hot (especially near the rear camera) and the phone makes a faint sizzling sound, which makes me think that there is a short.. Any tips?

Ty Frauenfelder -

Battery connector seems slightly longer on the ifix it battery compared to the apple baterys’s still works but make it far more difficult to reconstruct without squashing the battery

callumhardwick -

When I opened the phone i snapped the ribbon cable connecting the display to the phone. I’m heart broken but i hope this comment would warn someone out there.

abdo.soukkar -

This is a very thorough guide…until the end. “To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order” forgets to mention using a replacement display assembly adhesive to add waterproofing to the device. Nowhere in this guide does it mention the need for this part, which is sold by iFixit. I suggest amending this.

Richard Bent -

After the battery replacement Touch ID stopped working. I checked all of the flex cables and they appear to be intact. What could be the solution for this problem? Maybe it has to do at least one power cycle?

steroidofbrucie -

Ugh - similar issue to many here. I replaced the battery, being very careful with the ribbons and re-seating the connections. Everything worked fine - except the haptics. The phone is my son’s. If I use my thumbprint for Touch ID, it doesn’t recognize my thumb and gives the haptic feedback. My son can get in to his phone just fine, but the home button does not give haptic feedback to him. So the haptic engine is working only in the instance of an incorrect touchID or when hitting the volume button. But not otherwise. Everything else works fine…such a weird problem to troubleshoot. We re-seated all the connections and power cycled several times, including the shutting down through the settings menu.

ejschro -

Significant amount of force indeed!

I yoyo’d the phone off of one of the battery adhesive strips. The incredibly slippery aluminum case slipped out of my right hand as I was pulling one of the battery strips out with my left hand. It shot across the table and I was sure it was going to rip the adhesive strip. But it held!

Keep a grip on the phone when pulling the battery strips out.

D george -

I haven’t started the repair yet, but after watching the video, I am wondering why is it necessary to disconnect the display? Why not just leave it side by side then change the battery? Seems like a lot of risk to damage connectors for no real reason….Anyone?

Mac -

I just followed the instruction and the apple logo just flashes on and off and does not turn on. Do I just need to keep it plugged in to charge for a while?

anthonymleperry -

Hi, is it necessary to fully charge the battery after the replacement.

Lance Lathanide -

What could cause the loudspeaker to stop working after replacing the battery? I don’t see any connectors for the loudspeaker that I might have accidentally dislodged. I followed all of the troubleshooting steps I could find to rule out software issues. I even did a DFU restore. Everything is working on the phone except for the loudspeaker. Thanks.

gowski -

I received my new battery and installed it. The calibration on the battery box is different than the instructions given on ifix.com. The website says to charge to 100% and keep charging for 2 more hours. Then use it until it dies. Finally charge it uninterrupted to 100%. The ifixit battery box says use it until it dies and then charge it uninterrupted to 100%. Which is best?

Samantha Weis -

Unplugging the display might not be necessary, but it does help to release the stress on the flex cables. So…while not mandatory if all you want to do is replace the battery, it is recommended. This guide was really useful to me for replacing the battery on my iPhone 7, and everything went perfectly fine on the first try. Thank you! :)

arsradu -

Replaced battery, great video, Screws very small. Dropped a screw in side so turned upside down to get screw out.

Tore cable at top which i think is front facing camera but now digitiser doesn’t work either.

Bum!

Guy Barrett -

Excellent tuto. Tout s’est passé comme sur des roulettes.

Je repars avec mon ephone 7 restauré !

Merci à toute l’équipe. Merci pour la trad en français !!!

Patrick -

Avec plaisir ! Et bravo à vous pour la réparation !!

Claire Miesch -

iPhone 7... Bought the battery replacement kit, didn't come with an iOpener. I used a CVS Heating Pad as an alternative after several heat ups I managed to remove the LCD without any physical damage. I put everything back together, and to my surprise there was a rainbow on the left side of the screen and everything is shaking. I am not blaming iFiixIt, I dind't have the right tools. Get the right tools!!

Kevin Perez -

Lets gooooo!!! I finished without managing to screw anything up!!!

Callum Wilson -

The iPhone 7 guides lack a critical piece of information: The cable that goes to the home button (which lies under the display cable) is too long. It will get crushed and crimped between the two halves of the phone during reassembly, breaking the Home button and requiring an entire screen replacement to fix it. Pictures here.

You have to shove this thing back in with a toothpick or spudger while bringing the right side of the phone together.

Gavin Stokes -

Replaced iPhone 7 battery with no major problems, EXCEPT…new battery install is tricky (you have to align the loose battery connector to the terminal on the board before you press down on the battery to fasten battery adhesive). LAST THING…battery kit included new adhesive to apply to the display for waterproofing…there are no steps on the battery replacement instruction page. I didn’t know about this until I buttoned up the iPhone (so it didn’t get installed).

v.wong -

Have previously changed a 6S battery & now successfully changed the battery on a 7. The guide works well & one month later the battery health is still on 100%. Thanks to iFixit I've now extended the life on my iPhone.

Peter Brown -

спасибо, за инструкцию, всё установил, всё работает

Илья Кривёнок -

Danke für die Anleitung.
Das hätte ich mir schon viel früher antun sollen:

Ladekapazität: 2h ---> 2 Tage

Es hat eine Weile gedauert, weil ich sehr vorsichtig war, aber der Lohn war ungemein. Jetzt muss ich mir keine Gedanken machen wenn ich mit nur 20%-Ladung mal kurz unterwegs bin.

Bill Hearts -

Hi, just performed battery and screen change . . . accidentally punctured the black connection piece of metal of battery just before it clips into circuitry but iPhone is charging and seems to be working. Is the metal connection arm just a conductor of energy, therefore small hole in it, probably won't cause any problems??

Robert Crowley -

Would have been nice if the adhesive had numbers or peel this first, etc. Even screen protectors come with these.

I installed it but I doubt it's anywhere near waterproof and I cleaned all surfaces with 99% isopropyl and the pointy stick.

NitWit -

Hallo,

Der Austausch des Akkus hat bei mir problemlos funktioniert. Für diejenigen bei denen der Homebutton nach dem Neustart nicht funktionieren sollte (sofern der Homebutton und das Display intakt waren):

im iCloud Menü überprüfen, ob die Codeänderung deaktiviert ist! Dies das war in meinem Falle ein Problem, da unter den Einstellungen die Touch ID und Code nicht aufrufbar waren. Als ich diese im iCloud Menü wieder aktiviert habe, konnte dieser Menüpunkt wieder aufgerufen werden und die TouchID funktioniert wieder einwandfrei.

Also ist eine Sperrung der TouchID Funktion beim IPhone 7 durch Apple nicht gegeben.

Patrick -

Replaced the iPhone 7 battery with the IFIXIT IF332-005-10 and the phone keeps displaying the Apple logo on black screen…

It has been connected to the charger and Apple cable for over an hour. Initially it was displaying the Apple logo for a few seconds and then off (black screen), then logo again and then black screen… and so on. This resetting is still happening btw. but with longer (15-20 mins) Apple logo intervals.

Bum battery or do I need to wait much longer? I’d hate to have to revert back to the original Apple battery but at least it worked…

Dimitrios Mastrodimitropoulos -

This is an awesome tutorial. Pictures and instructions make a step by step foolproof repair possible along side the great tools.

mw511e -

I need help, please. I followed the directions very carefully while replacing my iPhone 7's battery and handled everything delicately. However, now the home button doesn't work. Do you any ideas or suggestions? I have no reservations opening it again to troubleshoot.

Many thanks!

cjcurcio -

Also, pressing the home button creates a pressure spot on the screen - same place every time. :)

cjcurcio -

If the the adhesive strip is broken (it happened to me 😇, you can use a credit card to lift the battery without risk

Bertrand de Lartigue -