iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 36

iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to remove, transfer, and/or replace the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly in your iPhone 11. This single part includes the earpiece speaker, microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor.

This assembly is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement.

The flood illuminator is critical to Face ID, and Face ID will stop working if the original flood illuminator is replaced, damaged, or installed incorrectly—so take extra care not to damage anything during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple’s authorized service providers can restore Face ID function.

Tools

Parts

iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Sensor Assembly

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

the right screws wouldn’t come off

Yusef San Inocencio - 19/04/21

ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!

Aisa Jawara -

Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!

danielaguirre93 -

You can try this.

Quickly Press and release the volume up button.

then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.

then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.

worked for me :D

Benóný Egilson -

Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?

Brian Baker - 20/07/23

not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws

Aisa Jawara -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.

matthew r -

I pulled the screen by accident instead of the bottom layer, now what?

Alvaro -

I have the same question

Konstantinos Solakoglou -

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?

Peter Hill -

Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.

Tonynox -

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Step 14

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the Face ID sensor array.

Step 15

Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.

Step 16

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Prop the display up against something sturdy.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 17

To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
Be careful not to strain or tear the display cables.

Step 18

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.

Austin Culberson -

Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.

Bernd Sonneck -

Step 19

Remove the bracket.

Step 20

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.

Step 21

Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Bernd Sonneck - 27/12/23

Step 22

Remove the bracket.

Step 23

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.

Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.

Pay attention.

Josmaknolavic -

내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?

Protoncal -

Hast Du das Problem gelöst?

Bernd Sonneck -

Step 24

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 25

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)

Richard Kraus - 16/04/21

Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.

Athanasius Pernath -

Step 26

Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

Correct me if I am wrong but you no longer need to do this as of IOS 15.2 as apple doesnt disable Face ID on 3rd party repairs

Oliver Pressello -

Step 27

Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via very thin ribbon cables. Be careful not to strain or damage the cables.

Step 28

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 29

Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

This step was a little bit confusing. I thought that the entire ribbon assm should be removed once the speaker was detached. The entire assm doesn’t actually come off until Step 30.

Andre LeBlanc - 14/07/20

Be careful in the next few steps, as you can easily damage some parts. Make sure that you operate gently, and that you don't pull, twist or apply too much pressure on the components.

Athanasius Pernath -

Step 30

Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.

As you remove it, familiarise with its position. It will be hard to put it back into place. If you pay close attention to how it comes out, it will be easier to put it back

Athanasius Pernath -

Step 31

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 32

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Step 33

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Also, your iPhone 11 will now display a notification that the screen on it is not original.

Rob - 01/05/20

Also if I‘m using an original Display? Will coping screen data with iCopy help? Or is there any other solution to get rid of this?

Katrin - 10/12/20

How about LCD shield plate removal instructions?

Os Reini - 16/06/20

Right here. Hope it helps!

Jeff Suovanen - 10/10/20

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

427153 Reputation

9 comments

What happens if you don’t remove the front speaker and sensors before the screen replacement? If you miss this step, after replacing the screen, can you use the same replacement screen and start over?

Thanks

Chuck Evans -

Hi Chuck,

Without the original front sensors, your Face ID will not work, as the components are paired to the logic board.

Arthur Shi -

Thanks, I have the original broken front screen. I’ll take that off and put it on the new screen.

Chuck Evans -

I have put the original speaker/camera/sensors on the new screen but still, get a phone that won’t turn on. I have tried 3 different iPhone 11’s and get the same result with each! They all worked fine, except for cracked screens, before I put on the new screens. I put Incell FX5 on each of them. Now, none of them will ower on. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Chuck Evans -

I bought a SWAPIE iPhone11 and the microphon is a disaster. is it true that they are using low budget replacement?!

Francisco Lopez Martinez -

I bought on aliexpress. Replacement screen and front camera, since the face id does not work, is it possible to use non-original replacements?

shimon_s -

If I repair the Earpiece Speaker and Sensor

Earpiece Speaker and Sensor will face Id still work?

Taylor Hodges -

todo ok en la guia y muy detallado. gracias

javier -

Hola,

¿Si solo quiero cambiar el altavoz auricular tengo que cambiar mas componentes? La pantalla y el resto de sensores me va bien, en el caso de que no sea por cambio de pantalla y no tener que trasladar sensores ¿como se hace?

Un saludo,

Rodrigo Fernández -