Introduction
Use this guide to replace the top left antenna.
Tools
Parts
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
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Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
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Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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Antennas
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Home button cavity
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Digitizer cable
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
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Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
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At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.
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Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
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Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
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Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.
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Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.
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If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.
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Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.
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Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.
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Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.
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Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.
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Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
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Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.
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Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.
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Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.
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Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.
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Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.
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Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.
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Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.
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While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
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Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.
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Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.
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While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.
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Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
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Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00
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Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00
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One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.
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Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.
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Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.
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Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
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While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.
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To minimize stress on the socket, try prying under the short edge of the connector, rather than the long edge which is shown in these images.
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Gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use tweezers to gently peel back and remove the black tape covering the gold patch on the headphone jack cable.
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Use tweezers to peel and remove the long thin black tape covering the top of the headphone jack cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the tab on the top left antenna ribbon cable's ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers to pull the top left antenna ribbon cable straight out from its ZIF socket.
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Gently bend the cable up and out of the way of the headphone jack cable.
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Slowly work the flat end of a metal spudger underneath the microphone cable, separating the adhesive securing it to the headphone cable.
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Use tweezers to pull the microphone cable straight out from its ZIF socket.
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Gently bend the cable up and out of the way of the headphone jack cable.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone cable connector.
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Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the headphone cable connector.
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Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone cable connector.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the length of the headphone jack cable, separating the adhesive securing the cable to the rear case.
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Remove two 1.5 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the side of the top left antenna to the rear case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the top left antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the tape securing the top left antenna cable to the rear case.
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While gently pulling up on the top left antenna cable, continue using the tip of the spudger to separate the tape from the rear case.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the top left antenna's screw tab, separating the small bit of adhesive holding it in place.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy -
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray -
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck -
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins -
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib -
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong -
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
Tim Feyaerts -
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
polleyphony -
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
Mike Jeanette -
Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.
Kyle -
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
laurentvidu -
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
breadandbits -
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
trebor65 -
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
trebor65 -
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
gazza667 -
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
Dennis -
Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg
Manu R -
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
mpulliam -
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
Esmond Pitt -
Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.
Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.
doug -
I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.
The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.
Richard O'Brien -
No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.
nin10doh -
#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######
Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…
T z -
I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.
Mizzoo, s.r.o. -
I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.
Randal Haufler -
I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?
janderson martin -
WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK
The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.
Run Up A Tree -
I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)
marcelflueeler -
I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)
Tom Weber -
iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.
To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.
jharrison -
Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?
Aspect22 -
A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.
Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.
Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.
Dan Smith -
For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.
Dan Smith -
BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.
Dan Smith -