Introduction
Use this guide to replace the headphone jack in your iPad Mini 3.
Tools
Parts
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
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Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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Antennas
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Home button cavity
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Digitizer cable
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
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Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
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At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.
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Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
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Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:
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Three 3.3 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
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Run a thin string (like floss or fishing line) under the display, starting from the top then working your way down
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Use a thin, flexible card or plastic money note to cut through the adhesive starting from the top.
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Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
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Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
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Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.
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Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.
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Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.
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Remove the LCD shield plate.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
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One 2.8 mm screw
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Three 1.4 mm screws
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift the home button cable up off of its socket on the logic board.
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Fold the home button ribbon cable out of the way.
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Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.
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Use a plastic opening tool to fold the front-facing camera cable clips outward, away from the cable, freeing the cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the front-facing camera cable connector straight up off of its socket on the logic board.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently fold the front-facing camera cable upwards (roughly at a 90-degree angle), exposing the bottom side of it.
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Use a set of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape covering the microphone cable connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the tab on the microphone ribbon cable's ZIF connector.
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Slide the tip of a tweezer under the microphone cable to separate it from the adhesive holding it to the headphone jack cable.
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Use tweezers to pull the microphone cable straight out from its ZIF socket.
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Gently bend the microphone cable up and out of the way of the headphone jack cable.
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Use a plastic opening tool to fold the headphone jack cable clips outward, away from the cable, freeing the cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger beneath the length of the headphone jack cable, separating the adhesive securing the cable to the rear case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy -