Xbox Series X Power Supply Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 25

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to remove and replace the power supply in an Xbox Series X.

If your Xbox doesn't power on or the light on the console doesn't light up, your power supply may be faulty.

Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the console.

Tools

Parts

Xbox Series X Power Supply

Step 1

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Step 2

Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Recommend using a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive.

Crash -

Microsoft can void your warranty. They can use whatever excuse if it is sent in because you opened it and you cannot prove you didn’t damage it.

DirtyD -

Step 3

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.

Step 4

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 5

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 6

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

Step 7

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Step 8

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.5 mm pancake screw
Two 8.8 mm screws

are there any 10.5mm wide head screw for the xbox fan for sale because i need a replacement because i accidentally broke mine

GhostMindX9 -

Step 9

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

Step 10

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reinstallation, note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.
If you are replacing the fan, a new fan will probably not include the plastic installation bracket. The bracket is attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. This is not pictured in this guide.

Step 11

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.

Step 12

Grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
You may need to hold the locking tab open while you get the base started.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, drop the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the "Hello from Seattle" line will be parallel with the device's sides.

Step 13

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.

Step 14

Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
The vibration isolator grips the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you may need to "walk" the isolator off of the drive to slip it off each side.
During reassembly, ensure the vibration isolator is pushed down and around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits flush with the rest of the center chassis.

Step 15

Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.

Step 16

Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
During reassembly, align the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
If the drive is misaligned, the top vibration isolator will not be able to be installed correctly, and the disc reader will be misaligned with the front of the console.

Step 17

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
If the USB port cable feels adhered to the metal chassis, apply an iOpener or carefully heat it with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Connector i-pex Evaflex 5-HD 24 pin

20952-024e-02

http://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files...

drops206 - 27/08/21

The silver ribbon cable is glued down to the center chassis, so only pulling on the black plastic pull tab will result in it pulling free from the cable as that tab is only glued to the cable.

Better to heat the silver ribbon cable's adhesive with a hair dryer, separate the cable from the center chassis, and then pull the cable from the connector using the black plastic pull tab.

Crash -

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

I broke this connector during disassembly. Is there a part number I can use to get a replacement on Mouser or Digikey?

Peter LeCraw -

I broke this connector during disassembly too. Where can I get this connector?

Oscar Cedeño -

the manufacturer of connectors in series x is I-PEX. exact part number (as far as I'm not mistaken) 20535-010E-02 EVAFLEX 5-VS. 0.5mm pin spacing (10pin connector). a possible rescue may be to desolder the connector from the switch board and solder it permanently there.

http://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files...

drops206 -

How do I purchase this from their website?

munirbisharat12 -

I have these connectors. Baycroc@fedtel.net

Evenson Electronics - 28/08/21

Would we be able to order them from you directly

bailey jackson -

Yes would we be able to order these connectors directly from you?

Blake Roan -

XSX NEXUS FPC Socket

kasynlife -

Step 20

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Step 21

Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.

Step 22

The center chassis is aligned to the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the center chassis and pull it towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Lift out the center chassis assembly to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly, make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.

Step 23

Unlatch the chassis strap from the right side of the power supply.

Step 24

Pull the chassis strap over and off of the power supply.
Once the strap is off of the power supply, set the loose section to the side.

Step 25

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
Two 13.1 mm screws
One 35 mm screw

Step 26

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Step 27

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Step 28

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Step 29

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 8.8 mm screw securing the power supply corner cover.

Step 30

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the power supply corner cover.

Step 31

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm screws securing the accessory antenna board to the center chassis.

Step 32

Grip the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Step 33

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the nine screws securing the board shield:
Six 8.8 mm black screws
Two 35 mm silver screws
One 13.1 mm silver screw

Step 34

Lift up the board shield to remove it from the center chassis.

Step 35

Disconnect the chassis strap from the locking tabs on either side of the power supply.

Step 36

Remove the chassis strap.

Step 37

Grip and compress the locking tab on the 10-pin power connector.
While compressing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.

Step 38

Grip and compress the locking tab on the 2-pin power connector.
While compressing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.

Step 39

Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.

Step 40

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the power supply around its perimeter:
Three 35 mm silver screws
One 8.8 mm black screw

Step 41

Remove the power supply.

Bei meinem Ersatznetz teil musste ich auch die Kunststoff Halterung tauschen, da sonst die Löcher für die Schrauben nicht passten

Mark Kommnick -

super gute Anleitung

Andreas Fleischmann -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Xbox Series X Answers community for help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

10 comments

So, I am a skilled DIYer. I had 1 series x that had no power all the sudden, under warranty, sent back and received a refurb. Then I got a halo infinite edition, it all the sudden wouldn't send video. It would power up but I couldn't boot in safe mode or low res mode. Sent it back, send me a refurb. Now my brothers Xbox did the same thing. It turns on but never boots then shuts off after few minutes. No controller connects either, and can't have the xbox sync with the flash. His is not under warranty so I bought a PSU and replaced, still same thing. Any ideas? Microsoft just sends you a refurb and doesn't tell you what was wrong or else I'd know since it happened to my infinite console.

heavychevy9 -

Have you tried replacing the SSD drive?

Kason M -

FYI this guide is amazing! Down to providing the length of screws and circling in photos. A++

heavychevy9 -

Well ladies and gentlemen I did it. Took about an hour and a half, only because I put one of the cables on backwards, otherwise it would have only taken an hour. SHES ALIVE!!!! Thank you so much to the person that created these instructions they were SPOT ON!

CAN I GET A A'MEN!!!

Jake Burton -

It just worked for me too! Took me about 2 hours, but I tend to work on this stuff extra slowly to be careful. Thanks so much!

Jon Aron -

Great guide! It took me about an hour with my 7 year old son helping me. I have PC and laptop background so that helped me a lot about knowing how to remove the ribbon cables and other connections. MS wants $300 to just give you another Xbox. Even with buying the tools I still saved $200. Great job ifixit!

Eric Culler -

The hardest thing was that %#*@ base plate,, everything worked great thank you

steven ramey -

This guide and the replacement power supply worked perfectly! We got the Xbox Series X when it was first released. In February 2023 it would no longer power on. I took it to two local repair shops and they both said it was too new, they couldn't work on it. Thankfully I found this guide and my 13 year old son and I were able to take it apart and put it back together again ourselves. It did help to have a Torx wrench that you can get some leverage with (L-shaped), especially for the screw with the oversized head. We kept track of the screws by writing the step number on a Post-it Note and sticking each screw on the note with a double-sided adhesive sticker. I wish we would have done this sooner!

Crystal R -

My house took a lightning strike 3 months ago and the only two things it fried was my cable modem and Series X. My luck, the Series X's warranty expired about 5 days before that happened. I ordered a PSU from iFixit and just finished installing it. Works like a charm and I'm finally back up and running. I used to build computers when I was younger so the install was pretty straightforward. This was much better than spending $600 on a new system :). Thanks iFixit!

Kason M -

Mine just had an issue where it turns on, button lights up white along with a beep, fan spins up for about 5 seconds then stops,
Light stays on but no video feed then shuts off.

Dunno is this is a PSU issue?
I ordered one to be safe, if it still doesn't fix it I will just send it back but if this isn't the issue then what is?
The SSD?

Udon Rodriguez -