Introduction
Tools
Parts
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This car has no easy lifting points, and a bodykit and low ground clearance makes lifting a bit harder
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I was able to come in from behind the front wheels at the sides and lift from the box section of the unibody as pictured
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The jack-stands I placed hard up against the jack and found a spot on the "frame-rails" (box section of unibody)
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I like to use cardboard, but a shop creeper would work too
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The oilpan and drain bolt are located at the right-front of the car
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The oil filter is faced downwards and is just in front of the oil pan under the intake manifold
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You don't need to take off the plastic under-shield but if it's annoying you could
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The drain bolt on the 1.3L engine is a 14mm
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Re-position the pan as it drains - especially if it's a windy day
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I like to use a set of oil-filter pliers but a correct oil filter socket would be a luxury, or a strap wrench or other tool would be fine
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Make SURE the gasket comes off with the old filter and is NOT stuck on the block
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Oil up your new filter's gasket
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Since the oil filter is facing down, you can pre-fill the oil filter if you like, it can be messy if you drop it though!
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Clean the mating surface with rags before installing the new filter
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Tighten the filter 3/4 turn after it touches the block
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Remember to also tighten the oil drain bolt, and clean around each area with rags so you can spot leaks easier
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Remove cardboard/creeper and any tools
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Lift each side and remove the jack stand
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Lower the car which will level it for filling
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The fill cap and dipstick are located at the front-right of the car (left side of engine bay)
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I used 10W-40 full synthetic oil, and the car accepted around 3.8L
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I like to use a stubby wide-mouth funnel
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Sorry I didn't take any photos of this step as it was the end of a long day of 3x cars servicing
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Run the car for 15 seconds or so to fill the filter and oil galleries
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Turn off the car and check for leaks underneath
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Check the level again with the dipstick and top up as required
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Servicing Done!