Introduction

If you've spent enough time exploring the wonderful uses of a Raspberry Pi (Model B Revision 2.0), then you may have explored enough to discover a faulty/broken USB port. No worries; a USB port replacement is an easy fix. First, you are going to need an adequate workspace and some knowledge of soldering/desoldering. Nothing fancy, just a well-ventilated space with clean, stable surfaces. If you do not already own a soldering iron, a fine-tipped model is recommended. Careful, the iron will be very hot; always make sure the iron cord is not in the way of your work.

If you decide to work outside, position yourself away from the wind; the fumes will remain out of your way. Also if you wear contact lenses you must remove them before soldering. If any fumes or debris were to intermingle with the lenses, they might get lodged and be difficult to remove.

Lastly, be patient. The estimated time is only a reference. If you have little or no experience with soldering, it might take some time to develop a rhythm. Also, if you find a technique that works for you, carry on. This is a learning experience, and a perfect port to practice on!

Caution: Soldering/desoldering presents a potential for device damage and burns. Always work in a well-ventilated area.

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    • Ensure that your workspace has adequate ventilation.

    • Clean your work area with a lint-resistant wipe.

    • A microfiber cloth is recommended, but not one you love! It will be used to clean flux later.

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    • Preheat your soldering iron.

    • Preheating will take 2-4 minutes, depending on your model.

    • Wet a heat-resistant cleaning sponge and have it nearby.

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    • Orient the Raspberry Pi so that the port-covered side faces downwards, and the opening of the USB port is visible.

    • Identify the 12 silver USB pins on the lower-middle section of the board.

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    • Use an inexpensive paint brush, or the applicator that came with the flux, to apply flux around the 12 pins on the printed circuit board (PCB).

    • Be sure to coat flux on what you don’t want to be covered in solder.

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    • Soldering/desoldering presents potential for device damage and burns.

    • Starting with the largest pins first, but individually, use the soldering iron to carefully melt the solder on each of the pins, with care not to damage the PCB.

    • You will need to keep the solder liquid throughout the next two steps. It's alright if it solidifies, but solder will not wick if it is not liquid.

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    • Make a wire loop out of the desoldering braid to "soak up" the solder on the smaller pins. Hook the pin and place the soldering iron tip on the loop and pin simultaneously.

    • Use the desoldering braid to “soak up" the melted solder. If the braid will not catch more solder, cut off the end and continue to the smaller pins.

    • This will be the most time-consuming step and may take some practice to refine a technique that works for you. Keep pushing!

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    • After all the solder securing the pins is removed, lightly heat each silver pin. Use a hemostat or needle-nose pliers to disconnect the smaller pins from the board.

    • Remove the faulty port with a gentle pull if necessary.

    • The metal casing of the port might be hot.

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    • Clean the excess flux off the PCB with a microfiber cloth.

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    • Insert the replacement port with the open side facing outwards.

    • The replacement part's pins might need a little jostling to be fully seated on the PCB.

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    • Apply flux around the 12 USB pins on the PCB.

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    • Melt a few millimeters of lead-free solder on the tip of the iron.

    • Bring the soldering iron with the melted solder close to the pin and its respective base. Slowly apply solder to a combination of the pin, pin-base, and the iron tip until the solder collects into a “bubble,” encapsulating the pin and base.

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    • Repeat the previous step for the remaining pins.

Conclusion

Your new USB port should be fully functional!

Tamren Lenn

Member since: 01/03/22

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