Nintendo Wii Remote Front Cover Plate and Batteries Replacement

Written By: Emily
  • Comments: 6
Nintendo Wii Remote Front Cover Plate and Batteries Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

4

Time Required

5 minutes

Introduction

Disassembling the case requires removing screws under the batteries. Removing anything inside requires this guide.

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    • Flip the Wii Remote over so the battery cover faces you.

    • Push up on the bottom tab.

    • Remove the battery cover.

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    • Remove the first battery by pressing down on the positive end and pulling the battery out.

    • Remove the second battery by pushing up on the positive end and pulling the battery out.

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    • Using a tri-point Y1 Screwdriver, remove the two center 7mm screws by turning them counterclockwise.

    • Repeat with the two bottom screws.

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    • With the flat end of a spudger, gently apply pressure to the tabs located on left side of the controller.

    • These tabs are breakable. However, if the tabs are broken the controller will still function.

    • Open the front plate like a book.

    • Small parts may fall out as you open the front plate.

    Mine is not opening like a book? What do I do?

    Micah Thompson -

    It stops short of explaining replacing rechargeable battery. Unless you’re referring to the AA’s which don’t involve removing cover

    Sticky Insides -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Emily

Member since: 14/04/13

1479 Reputation

4 comments

Worked! Had to solder the tab to contact the battery which had broken. Saved $50.00.

Graham Poor -

The Tools section lists a Tri-Point Y1 Screwdriver but the guide mentions a Tri-Wing Y1 Screwdriver. This could cause people to purchase the wrong item.

iFixit’s guides seem to be based on the original Wii controller, model RVL-003. I’m not sure if Nintendo has changed fasteners for subsequent versions but the Wii MotionPlus Controller, model RVL-036, uses a Tri-Wing Y0 screw.

kivrin -

@kivrin Thanks for your comment. I’m pretty sure it should say tri-point, not tri-wing. I’ll update the instructions. Tri-wing screws have a more twisted/triangular form factor, like this.

Jeff Suovanen -

My controller (the original) had three tri-wing screws and one philips. Not sure why. Had to re-solder the negative battery terminal as it came off the bottom of the ‘top’ (faces bottom) of the board.

audvare -