Nintendo Switch Pro Controller Buttons / D-Pad Replacement

Written By: James Seidlinger

Comments: 20

Nintendo Switch Pro Controller Buttons / D-Pad Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

10 - 15 minutes

Introduction

The Nintendo Switch Pro controller’s buttons and D-Pad are the main inputs of the controller. The buttons may need to be replaced if they are unresponsive, please check out our troubleshooting guide for more information.

During disassembly be careful of sharp edges, there are a few exposed pieces of plastic that could cut you.

Tools

Step 1

Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.
Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the two black 8.4 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.

Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.

Lukas Eberharter -

I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.

Isaac Webb -

I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work

vincent ingrassia -

Step 2

Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.

Step 3

Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 6.8 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.

Step 4

Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover using your fingernail.

Step 5

Remove the clear plastic cover.

Step 6

Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side.
Only a small amount of force is needed.

Step 7

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the five 5 mm screws from the back of the controller.
The two case screws above the handgrips and the single case screw below the battery bay have a shallow seat. These three screws can be easily removed.
The two case screws adjacent to the ZR and ZL shoulder buttons have a deep seat. Use an extension or a Phillips screwdriver with a longer shaft to reach these screws.

the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up

drew - 06/02/21

Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.

An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.

Douglas Selby - 05/03/21

I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.

El_Mechacontext -

An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!

El_Mechacontext -

Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.

Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.

Techn0magier -

Step 8

Delicately take off the plastic cover from the controller.
Do not completely remove the front cover just yet, as it is still attached to the motherboard via a white ribbon cable.

Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.

Roger Perez -

this step is really hard

XDchlapec -

Step 9

Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards.

Having just completed this repair, I noted that this ribbon cable can disconnect on either side. It is easier to disconnect and reconnect from the other side than what is shown in my experience.

acestronautical -

@acestronautical is right! much easier to remove the ribbon cable from the button board, connect to the base board and then connect back to the button board. Thank you @acestronautical

Joe Rickerby -

Step 10

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector.

You don't need to disconnect this as long as you are fine with keeping it close by so as not to rip the ribbon cable.

Caden Helm -

Step 11

Remove the front case.

Step 12

Remove the two 6.8 mm-long screws on the top circuit board using a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 13

Use a spudger to flip up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.

Step 14

Remove the black ribbon cable from its connector.
Only a small amount of force should be needed to remove the ribbon cable.

What do I do if the connector snaps off? Is it fixable with solder or electrical tape or should I give up hope?

Jack Frost -

This ribbon cable is difficult to reconnect, quality tweezers are required. I was unable to slide the ribbon cable in to where I could no longer see the traces. Take note of how much ribbon cable is exposed before disconnecting so that you can have an easier time judging when the cable is fully inserted upon reconnecting.

acestronautical -

Step 15

Remove the trigger buttons from the plastic cover.

Step 16

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 5 mm-long screw securing the circuit board.

There’s one more screw - in this picture, on the left. The junction of the body and left grip, right behind the ABXY buttons.

Matt Rausch -

Hi @mattrausch, thanks for your comment. You're right, the circuit board is held by two screws. I've updated this step.

Adriana Zwink -

Step 17

Remove the circuit board.

Step 18

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the button(s) you wish to replace.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

James Seidlinger

Member since: 10/10/19

647 Reputation

3 comments

On re-assembly, you may have trouble getting the top circuit board and shoulder button support structure to snap into place. It’s easiest to get the circuit board around the right analog stick hole, and push it all the way down until it is in place, then to secure the shoulder button support structure.

Make sure the “Home” button clear plastic light spreader (a clear irregular circle-shaped piece) is in place on top of the home button assembly, or it will give the home button a “sunken” appearance.

nclee - 03/12/20

Worked well, thank you. Had a gooey X button that needed to be cleaned.

Anthony Peacock -

What about the sync button? I've been scouring the Switch Pro Controller guide all day but there's nothing on how to remove the sync button! Mine is in really bad shape from having to use paperclips to press it but i can't find a guide to repair it anywhere.

faye kim -