Introduction
MacBook Pro not reading CDs? Use this guide to replace a burned-out optical drive.
Tools
Parts
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
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Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
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Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove following two screws:
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One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 3.9 mm Phillips screw
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Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.
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Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.
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Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive.
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Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
4 comments
In Step 8, be careful when putting back the airport black plate that there is a little lip under the thumb (in the photo) and needs to be inserted underneath the outside black frame before rescrewing the 2 screws.
Secondly, I used this guide to add the data doubler caddy from OWC. Be sure to unscrew the philips screws and the little metal plate on the outside of the optical drive and attach it to the caddy. It will allow you to attach the 3rd torx6 screw of the caddy to the frame closest to the center.
Michael -
Yeah; Michael’s bit about the inner retaining bracket (“plate”) needs to get put into the main instructions here.
john -
Kudos to everyone who warned about the screws in step #8. They’re not nice screws and they do need to replaced with a reasonable amount of torque in order to secure the BlueTooth/WiFi assembly. You have to remove those screws in order to remove one of the 3 Torx screws securing the drive mechanism.
I personally had little trouble with the screws in step #8 but only because I was forewarned and took extra care to ensure that I was using the exact cross head driver for the screws. It helps to have the right tools.
Now… if anyone has any tips on how to get those fiddly Torx screws back into their positions I’d be even more grateful. I’ve managed it but find that screws like that are a real pain to get back into place. The heads are not at all deep, they’ve picked up a bit of magnetism and prefer to jump off the driver and stick to any other metal in the machine. The longest part of the job is getting those three screws properly seated (not cross threaded) and screwed down to the point when the drive is secure.
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will -
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -