MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013 Display Assembly Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan

Comments: 111

MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013 Display Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

40 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly.

Tools

Parts

MacBook Air 13" (Mid 2013 to 2017) Display Assembly

Step 1

Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
Two 9 mm screws
Eight 2.6 mm screws

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - 20/07/15

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - 01/11/15

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - 20/11/15

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - 10/01/16

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - 11/01/16

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - 13/01/16

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - 07/09/17

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

Jamie Comstock - 03/12/17

P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

William Skinner - 20/08/18

I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

eric - 03/08/19

Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

Dennis Eaton - 22/08/18

My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

Pennny Beach - 13/10/18

The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

Nikolay Andreev - 12/01/19

Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

joemoog - 24/03/19

Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

Merci pour votre aide.

chicco33 - 21/04/19

oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

Dan - 13/06/19

The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

Andre Clement - 19/05/19

P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

michaelquinnell - 02/07/19

Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

Thomas Lewis - 05/07/19

To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

also

P4 = 0.8

P6 = 1.5

Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

nijafe - 02/10/20

I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

Sean Love - 22/10/19

Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

John Brennand - 30/01/20

Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

Was very easy.

New iFixit battery looks great so far:

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

Jonathan Cross - 08/03/20

can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

hawk_lpc - 13/06/20

Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

Mario Verlent - 15/05/20

Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

Joel Sebastian - 21/08/20

Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

Donald Niamath - 02/09/20

Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

Amir Zaidi - 27/09/20

Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

Billy Wong - 20/11/20

Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

Fletcher Cole - 25/11/20

… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

Blatt - 17/02/21

Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

instead press

OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

Albert -

IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

Good luck. - Eric J.

ECJohansen -

On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.

Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

Rich Garella - 30/10/23

IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

shrhh -

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - 25/05/17

To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

nijafe - 02/10/20

When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

Gabriel - 12/04/18

So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

ASHANTI SMITH - 25/06/19

What about disconnecting the battery?

Luke - 06/08/20

I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

Lance Berc - 23/10/20

As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

BobY - 15/03/21

Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

Nexus -

The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

Jim Henderson -

Step 3

To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.
Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

Marcel - 07/02/19

how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

a smith - 20/09/19

I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

Kevin Epstein - 14/01/21

When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

Connor Dougherty - 26/01/21

After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

AnnoniMoose -

There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

rmccord23 -

What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

Carla Tisdale -

Yep, exactly the issue that I have

Martin Adams -

Where can i buy the battery connector?

Bernie-Khay Dabu -

Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

Bernie-Khay Dabu -

Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

Lisa Mac -

Step 4

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

Tito Jankowski - 01/01/19

Step 5

Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

Tom O'Leary - 01/07/19

Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

Halston Halston - 19/05/20

I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

Edward Mills - 08/07/20

I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

Alexae Visel - 22/05/21

20.00000.000$

Dewi Oasis -

Step 6

The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.
While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
Remove the I/O board cable.

pour le remontage

de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

matthiasf40 -

A client was careless and used a fingernail to pry up the cable in one pull. It pulled the socket right off the logic board.

w98fxr -

Step 7

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - 02/10/14

My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

Cameron Lawrence - 06/07/19

Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

Edwin - 27/07/20

I've performed many repairs on 13" MacBook Airs ('MBA's), including two heat sink compound 're-dos' just today (on a 2014 13" and a 2015 13").

It is not necessary to remove the I/O Board to take out the heatsink. And I've done it both ways - its way easier if you leave the I/O board in place. Here's why: removing the I/O board requires dis -and re-connecting two extremely delicate connectors as well as several cables that are really tricky to get back in place, all critical connections. If you aren't experienced with this kind of work, its taxing.

Instead, once you remove the flat I/O cable, remove the 3 screws holding in the fan and the two hinge screws securing the antenna cable guide. Now the screw securing the tip of the 'radiator' end of the heat sink will be pretty easy to access. The detached fan can moved (and you don't need /want to move it much!) to disengage the rubber shroud where it goes under the fan and gently guide the 'radiator' out.

clinton -

Step 8

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

Tito Jankowski - 01/01/19

lol same thing for me.

h_man08 -

Step 9

Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

maccentric - 25/10/16

During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

Rhiannon Orizaga - 25/05/18

Step 10

Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.
Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

Rany -

I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - 02/10/14

If you are careful with the ribbon cable, there is no need to remove it, the fan will swing out of the way enough. I applied a small amount of sticky tape over the connector to keep it in place, just in case!

Damian Holland -

Step 11

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

It requires a somewhat concerning amount of force. I mean, be careful, but I pulled just slightly more than I was comfortable with (for the first time)

Elijah Kennedy - 12/10/20

Step 12

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
Pry up from beneath the wires.

Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

maccentric - 08/09/17

Step 13

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

Michael Kruger - 02/10/14

Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

Reynold Gonsalves - 07/10/18

I managed to get the little flap out when trying to push it back in. Now I can’t get the microphone to work…

Edwin - 27/07/20

I removed it And I can’t get it to stay connected now that I am putting it back together? How does it stick to the gold part???

jelainec1 - 19/10/20

This was an extremely sensitive part to remove. The sticky bit didn’t seem to want to let go, and there isn’t really anywhere to ‘grab’ the cable from the ZIF socket. Ended up using the sticky ‘cover’ portion. Just be carefully wiggling and cajoling the cable free. (2013 model)

Thomas Keats - 06/01/22

Step 14

Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

Michael Kruger - 02/10/14

I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

Rhiannon Orizaga - 25/05/18

This comment was extremely helpful as the connection on the cable end is difficult to see. The tab is for pulling the connector into place.

jheller105 - 09/04/21

Step 15

Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

Step 16

Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

Emilio - 13/06/14

THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

samdaman91 - 14/04/16

OAT YEAH! Followed this guide to replace my Macbook Air 2014 I/O board step-by-step (thx Jeff Suovanen and contributors) with no probs…workie workie now! FYI it had stopped charging…I tried a new charger, new battery, and finally this I/O board…

Just take your time and make sure you have the torx screw + adapter bits and spudger as they do not come with the I/O board (I had them leftover from a previous iFixit battery swap).

Kent O - 21/07/20

When replacing the I/O board, be careful to gently lift the microphone ribbon cable out of the way. If you forget, you’ll have to remove the I/O board to get at it again…

VikingShips - 12/04/21

Step 17

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

super hard to reconnect

ramonaudiovisual - 09/03/19

I really put an effort on step 27 and I must say it wasn’t that difficult to connect. It takes a little patience, of course.

Edwin - 27/07/20

impossible to re-connect for me

GIRAUD -

Step 18

Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.
Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.
Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

This picture is in reverse

James Couch - 24/04/19

No it isn’t. I am

James Couch - 24/04/19

Step 19

Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.

Step 20

Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

Step 21

Remove the inner four (two on each side) 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case.
Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.

Had a brief moment of panic here when I realized I didn’t have the requisite TX8 size in my collection of bits. I did have a TX7, though, and it worked just fine.

scott -

Step 22

Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

Step 23

Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

Step 24

While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.

Step 25

Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accesible.
Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.
Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Step 26

Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches.
Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges.
Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

Step 27

During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

694047 Reputation

17 comments

Just a reminder that you DO NOT want to touch the battery with your hands or a screw driver you can compromise the integrity of the battery and possibly cause a thermal event. Always use proper battery cover kit.

http://www.macpalace.com/076-1372-batter...

Corey -

It's not written to remove the screen cable connector (at the top left corner, looking to the lower surface). Please add this step

Emilio - 13/06/14

This step is still needed (before step 18, which shows it disconnected). I didn't notice this until I attempted to remove the display.

Stuart Mc - 30/06/15

When reassembling the device, keep in mind that the holes in the hinges are relatively big compared to the T8 screws, so there will be a certain play. Check if display and body are in line when the MacBook is closed, then tighten the screws.

Marcel - 31/10/14

When I noticed this (also similar issue when installing the trackpad), I thought "what an inferior engineering for such an expensive product".

Gene Pavlovsky - 19/04/17

These instructions were great. I was able to replace the cracked display on my air with no issues.

Brandon Beckham - 28/01/18

how much did your new screen cost?

Orlando Bustamante Rincón - 29/01/18

Upon completing the installation of the new screen I found out that the screen backlight was not working. I checked all connections and everything was connected properly. I checked the fuse that has the “P” on it and it does not appear to be blown. I looked over other chips on the board and did not find anything else blown. Are there any other things I should look into before assuming that the display is the problem?

Simon Wagner - 15/02/18

Check the brightness setting on the computer. If it is all the way down the backlight turns off.

Joe Legris - 15/02/18

The instructions and the steps were excellent and the diagrams were clear. Suggestion for step 20 when reassembling is to let them know which side to use to put it back in or make the person note the side - I was trying to get it back in gently the way in which it lay but it turned out that I had to flip it . That could be that my eyes are not that strong anymore but still excellent instructions and the system is working well. thank you

Sohail Haque - 19/07/19

I followed step by step and i fix my screen on my MacBook Air

damian malcolm - 02/08/20

Is it possible to swap the display assembly of a 2015 model A1466 EMC 2925 onto the keyboard assembly of a 2013 model A1466 EMC 2632? I have two airs, one with a broken display and one with a broken keyboard, but they are from 2015 and 2013 respectively and I want to know if the hardware is compatible to swap the two. Thanks for the help!

Aidan Praytor - 15/11/20

Thank you.

I always approach Mac repairs with some trepidation but this guide gave me the confidence to go ahead without worry. Boy, some of those connectors are teeny!

Alan Wood -

THANK YOU, WALTER. Excellent directions, as always. I completed the replacement in 70 minutes despite my thick, clumsy fingers and my abundant trepidation.

I likely wouldn’t have attempted this job if I hadn’t already managed numerous other, simpler iFixit-guided tasks (phone battery, laptop battery, SSD drive, etc.). Because the guide involved so many tiny and intricate connectors, I admit to holding my breath when I eventually booted it up with the new display. But, success was mine!

These directions empowered me to inexpensively restore my MacBook for (I hope) a few more years of service, after Apple told me it wasn’t worth fixing.

I sourced a replacement display assembly at AliExpress for just CAN$140 (my first-ever purchase from AliExpress, so I suffered a bit of trepidation there as well). The transaction went smoothly and the part arrived in perfect condition three weeks later. (The seller also offered a much cheaper option—LCD screen only—but installing that would have been well beyond my pay grade.)

scott -

merci beaucoup !!! c'est parfait !

hdeh -

This looks great. I'm worried that re-interpreting the steps backwards to get things back together might be difficult!

Diana L -

Perfekte Erklärung. Vielen Dank!

Edward Pereira Gomes -