Logitech MX Ergo Disassembly

Written By: Jørn-Stian

Comments: 17

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

Time Required

10 - 15 minutes

Introduction

So I soaked my mx ergo. this is how I disassembled and cleaned it.

Tools

Step 2

Slide a prying tool under the rightmost button and follow the seam back till the top half unclips

Once you open the cover, you can skip straight until step #13.

Eiti -

Step 3

Carefully lift the top shell.
Do not remove the flap from the connector.
Release the flex ribbon from its socket.

Note the dark brown part of the connector LIFTS UP, don’t try to remove it or it could break. The brown part pushes against the cable to make it snug.

sean richards -

Step 5

Unplug the battery from the mainboard, carefully lifting the plug marked blue
Unscrew the three screws holding the battery submodule

Step 6

Unscrew the bottom left screw holding down the fwd/rev buttons, lifting the assembly to the side
Unplug the flex ribbon indicated in blue, coming from the power board below. Remove the six screws holding the main motherboard (one indicated orange here, just out of shot).

Step 7

Unscrew the three screws holding the power board i place. Take care not to loose the power switch below as you take the last bits apart.
These three screws are a bit shorter than the rest, so keep them separate

Step 8

There you go, all disassembled. Now remove spilled coffee.

Step 9

The right click lever comes out after the bracket covering the ribbon cable
The Right click lever comes out through the front/top of the mouse
Then the circuit boards can be removed

Step 10

Under the circuit boards there is three piece that need to come out next
The first has one screw and two clear pieces that transmit the light from the circuit board to the outside of the mouse and hole to allow another to pass through it
Then the computer selector switch lever can come out the front/top of the mouse
After that the connecting light indicator transmitter will fall out and the left click lever can be removed

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

15 comments

Thank you for the guide. The opening was hilarious— a picture says 1000 words.

I wanted to add a note that you need to use a T6 with a very long neck like the one iFixit offers for sale; an ordinary bit with a ~ 1/2” or ~1 cm long head will not be able to reach the two next to the opening to the thumb ball.

Allison Adz - 15/12/20

I had the same issue as you. My left click got damaged somehow and wouldn’t “return” when I clicked it. Opened it up, took both springs out and compared them. Looks like the left click spring got bent somehow. Straightened it up a bit and put it back in, seems to work perfectly now! I was going to buy a new one, but now I don’t have to. Thanks for the guide and +1 for iFixIt!!!

B T -

Hi,

My ergo fell down and I am unable to change the bluetooth selector : it is stuck on « 2 » and my pc does not see he mouse anymore.

Any idea how I could fix this ?

Thanks

Raymond Ghysels -

tinker with the board in step 9. the button for bluetooth selection is on that board.

Frank -

Any updates on this? Having the same issue, but stuck on 1, and won't enter pairing mode either. Removed and cleaned with IPA, hoping that works. Any idea where the actual bluetooth module is located on the board(s)? Nothing appears loose but don't get a connection with a new receiver, via cable, or bluetooth to anything that should be able to see the device. Thanks in advance.

Ricky VanWert -

I have same issue as well. 1-2 button stuck on one or the other and blinking. Early on I had success cleaning the ribbon contacts and switch. after about 5x that no longer works. I originally had 1 pc using Logi unifying rcvr and the other with BT. Switch both to Logi to see if that would help - it didn't. Pretty sure its a bad switch - one of the smaller metal ones. I suppose next step is to reflow and then look for a replacement switch, or a parts doner mouse.

Mike Clark -

hi, are the omron switches of the left and right buttons soldered, or are they interlocking?

giat -

@gullit left and right buttons are soldered. only normal open and common are used, NormalClosed is soldered but not connected. I just replaced them with silent switches. thanks to this guide.

Frank -

Are the Schematics for the PCB available?
I replaced the switches but now the right click does not work anymore.

When I press the right click button, I can hear the switch click, but nothing happens on the screen.

Akhil -

I had the same issue on a left switch after replaced it with a longer life (D2FC-F-K (50M), Further checked with multimeter for continuous of signal from the switch's pin to its circuit then found that it was my poor soldering at the switch's pin. You may encounter the same issue as mine...Hope this helps.

Yos Sufficiency -

Thank you so much for this. I find the click sensitivity on the right button to be obscenely light. So much so that I experience 15-20 unintentional clicks per hour, just from resting my hand on it. I'm going to open this sucker up and carefully, delicately, bend the crap out of those springs.

Ron Moses -

Thank you so much for this. I too was having issues with the left click button being unresponsive/going back to it’s original setting. Adjusted the springs after performing the top disassembly and my mouse clicks like normal again.

Michael Li -

The buttons (which start to get a bit iffy after a year or so of use) are these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/D2FC-F-7N-Switc.... Going to find out how tricky they are to desolder as I've an old MX Ergo and a new one, so I can practice the job. This disassembly guide was helpful, especially as I got a little stuck around the roller assembly, helpful to see where leverage could go.

Danny Staple -

spare parts available? I can't find a wheel (broken by a fall)

jo buelens -

mouse button springs? Where can I get them?

Ben Bass -