Logitech M185 Wireless Mouse Disassembly

Written By: Karmanyaah Malhotra
  • Comments: 10
Logitech M185 Wireless Mouse Disassembly

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

5

Time Required

45 seconds - 2 minutes

Introduction

  1. CK2LCNb5u6LAUmE5
    CK2LCNb5u6LAUmE5
    h5q1oaMTVTORqAYE

    • Remove battery cover by sliding it off.

  2. qSVZJ13TVFxEni3T
    qSVZJ13TVFxEni3T
    sPlBCKecHXTssHmh

    • Unscrew the Phillips #1 screw in the battery compartment after removing the battery.

  3. JTsvq4yeqGhgS3gU

    • There is no need to remove its rubber feet since it is held together by only one screw.

    • Wiggle the grey part of the top to remove it by pulling it towards you(away from the scroll wheel).

    • Do not pull the grey cover towards the top and do not pull the part near the keys.

    • Reasoning by Jacob Hickey "because in the internal top part of the mouse where the buttons/scroll wheel is, there’s hinges-like “tooth” that’ll snap if you do pull on it. It’s like opening a jewelry box that has a hinge on one end of the box… if that makes sense…"

    • The image is what your mouse should look like in the end.

    Just note, the reasoning on the author of this guide indicating “Do not pull the grey cover towards the top and do not pull the part near the keys” is because in the internal top part of the mouse where the buttons/scroll wheel is, there’s hinges-like “tooth” that’ll snap if you do pull on it. It’s like opening a jewelry box that has a hinge on one end of the box… if that makes sense…

    Jacob Hickey -

  4. PCdhKDJRmJ5xyLu6
    PCdhKDJRmJ5xyLu6
    dNLvoG5TCEnZZOnt
    VhwutNNBkQTSgrLv

    • Push back small black clips to release the circuit board.

    • Slide up the metal battery connectors to free them from the casing. (Note that these are soldered to the circuit board.)

    • Fully remove the circuit board with the battery connectors and image sensor still attached.

  5. x44MSmXUoumKCAdW
    x44MSmXUoumKCAdW
    JL6GDAXe6fxNYr3C
    A5KlDjFGdMiKEwAf

    • Working from back to front (left to right in the first image) unclip the first two pairs of black plastic clips.

    • Slide the black upper casing forwards over the mouse wheel whilst applying pressure the two front clips to release them.

    • Separate the two casing layers fully.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Karmanyaah Malhotra

Member since: 23/09/18

855 Reputation

9 comments

Thank you Karmanyaah Malhotra for takin’ the time to do this for everybody like me :-)

Jacob Hickey -

TElll me now or else

Brayden Karanian -

I will be sad

Brayden Karanian -

Wow! As an engineer in molded plastics, this mouse is the most gorgeous impressive molded thing I've seen in a long time. Worth taking my mouse apart just for fun. Impressed with Logitech again. Thank you for the excellent instructions.

Bought my keyboard/mouse at Microcenter.

James Salter -

The screw in the battery holder was covered by a sticker on my mouse. So I used a small screwdriver to just poke through the sticker and I was able to get it apart. Excellent post. Saved me a lot of time & hassle. My left click button had lost its spring because over the years the cover was wearing away the button. Just put a small piece of electrical tape over the part of the cover that pushes the click button and now it works great again. Thanks!

Michael Nagy -

Also, I second James Salter's opinion on this molded plastic. Still springy after all these years. Kudos to Logitech!

Michael Nagy -

I seem to have a cheaper version. I'd guess it's an illegal clone but do people really bother with low end mice?! I don't have that red jumper cable - the laser is on the main board. I don't have any circuit board clips, not as many clips on the top & the bottom of the top is flat - none of the structural reinforcing cross beams present. The wheel is a completely different device.

My problem is the wheel - it appears to have been directly attached to the sensor with a <1mm rod which has broken. I can not even take the part of the wheel in the sensor out; AS shown in my ASCII art below (S: sensor. W: wheel) it is practically part of the sensor:

SSS WW

WS WW

WWWWWWWWWW

WS WW

SSS WW

Hopeless? I was thinking of melting a hole with a needle & jamming in a slightly larger metal rod but I can't even tell how much of the sensor face is wheel, and how much is a plastic plate covering the wheel. If I try this - any tips on materials/hole boring technique/glue?

Carter McLaughlin -