Introduction

Be careful as the LED ribbon cable is fragile and prone to breaking.

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    • This is what your keyboard should look like. If you don't have a swing type LED screen then you might be on the wrong tutorial. I have no idea if any of this applies to the newer fixed LED type keyboard.

    • Now if you DO have this version of the G15 then you are in the right place. So step 1: Unplug the keyboard. (DUH)

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    • Next you need to flip over the keyboard in removed the 16 black screws holding the outer black shell on.

    • In the picture the holes are circled and numbered.

    • The two black screws closer to the "core" of the keyboard (circled in yellow) hold the back light to the back cover so if you opt to, you can keep those in place for now and remove them later.

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    • ****WARNING: Be VERY careful in this step as the ribbon cable is very fragile.

    • Flip the keyboard back over.

    • CAREFULLY use a flat head screw driver to pry the edges of the front cover up from the back of the keyboard. But DO NOT yet attempt to remove it all the way.

    • You may break some of the retainers. You might consider gluing them back on later but they don't seem to be overly important with the screws doing most of the work. I found that starting from the BACK edge and lifting that slightly first and then working towards the front so it could slide forward and free the front retainers worked well.

    • CAREFULLY tilt the FRONT of the keyboard up and look for where the LED screen's ribbon cable attache to the main board in the far back center.

    • Lift up CAREFULLY on the black retainer tab on each side of the slot until the ribbon cable releases (less than a millimeter or two) and pops out of it's slot. Be careful to not wreck the ribbon or the LED won't work ever again (at least not without some very complicated repairing).

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    • Now would be a good time to get the USB cable out of the way.

    • The rubber retainer that is part of the wire that fits into the shell of the keyboard slides up and out easily.

    • Remove the usb cable's female end from the five pin male white connector and set it aside.

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    • Remove the screw circled in purple. It's there to provide a "ground" or 0v reference.

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    • Remove the three silver Philips head screws (circled in blue in the pictures) holding the control pad and light button pad against the motherboard and set them aside.

    • You have been putting all the screws in a safe place haven't you?

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    • Using a smaller or jeweler size screw driver, remove the 12 smaller silver Philips head screws (circled in orange in the pictures) that hold the light and key panel to the motherboard.

    • [I dunno if there are more proper terms for them. Don't hate. Let me know and I'll edit.]

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    • CAREFULLY unplug the NINE (circled in yellow) connectors that connect the key/light board to the main board.

    • Some are ribbon style and slide out with the little bit of ugga-dugga (very little), the others are more typical connectors. None of them are as delicate as the LED one you dealt with before so this should be cake.

    • The main one of interest is in the upper left that connects the LED lights to the main board.

    • Now slowly and CAREFULLY lift the keyboard away from the main board and set the main board aside.

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    • As you now have the main board separated from the back panel, turn it over.

    • You can now extract the LED plates from the bottom of the keyboard.

    • Now it's time to install the replacement board, or to replace the LEDs on this plate.

    • It's St. Patrick's Day. I'm going to get some corned beef even if all the bars are closed due to coronavirus.

    • Let me know if anyone is alive out there.

    I lived! Get at least 8000mcd LEDs. Double (do they exist?) are probably better. You can also use round LEDs.

    The one who repaired his G15 -

    working for me so far. having trouble getting the light panel off though

    Gerald Thomas -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

PsiFire

Member since: 17/03/20

315 Reputation

12 comments

When will step 8 and beyond be added?

BloodShed -

Been busy with COVID-19 and all. I can try to work on it today some more. Anything in particular you need help with?

PsiFire -

Separating the ‘light’ plate and removing the LED’s what type I replace them with, comes to mind.

BloodShed -

I ended up getting these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/120973346340

I was optimistic about the result when it was apart but when all back together and it had time to “burn in” the lights still seem a bit dim. If you can get your hands on something brighter, I might suggest using that but YMMV. The stats on those bulbs could provide with at least a starting point.

PsiFire -

Here’s a page that describes a lot of the basics of LEDs in general: http://www.gizmology.net/LEDs.htm

I’d posit that perhaps a wider viewing angle might be as if not more beneficial than higher MCD, but more MCD likely couldn’t hurt.

PsiFire -

Any recommendation for a dim LCD display? The ribbon looks clean and it reacts to the brightness toggle, but just barely.

Aestheticus -

Thanks for this guide, even tho not finished i can see its really in dept and laid out clearly.

Can i suggest one tiny but very important thing.

Have an extra warning about the LCD ribbon cable since that is highly fragile. (it can even break just opening closing the display to much.)

(There are models where this is more a problem then others, but all are O.G. G15. ;) )

Thanks again for this already wonderful guide.

ps. I need to wait a couple months for my leds, if they arrive i’ll try and remember this page, and make some pictures if you want some more. ;)

HanZie -

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll see if I can integrate that now as it was also mentioned in another guide that I used to help me when I did mine and made this guide. It’s on my very long TO-DO list to get this finished. Sadly, I’ve noticed the LEDs I did some time ago seem to have gone dim again so I may open her up to investigate. I haven’t used the G15 keyboard much lately tho since getting a wireless keyboard/mouse setup.

PsiFire -

Hey, since there's a few people around here does anyone know if the ribbon cable can be replaced display-side at all?

It should be much easier to replace than an entire screen assembly especially since those seem very rare now.

And is the screen itself supposed to be backlit?

Thanks for this guide, it's a very helpful point to get started since the very first steps aren't obviously clear.

btw my cable didn't break from disassembling but the heat shrink tubing they used to roll it up inside the hinge started gnawing on it every time the screen moved… ;-(

anyway, thanks again. Peace. ✌?❤️

Christian Born -

Thanks for putting this tutorial together! I’m looking forward to seeing this when complete. In the meantime, I’d like to get all the parts before starting on this. Can you tell me what size and quantity LEDs I’ll need, if I need to consider replacing the resistors (assuming that they are replaceable) and if so which ones I need?

Great tutorial so far. Very clear and organized!

Brett Latta -

I used 8000mcd LEDs and I'd consider that the bare minimum for daylight readability.

Use round LEDs. My keyboard came with square ones, but 3mm round ones will do perfectly fine. Will greatly increase your choice of vendors.

When taking out the old LEDs, be sure not to wiggle too hard. Wiggeling will put push-pressure on the solder pads, which will rip off and give you a bad time.

When you experience, that LEDs are broken in a row from the tail, you will probably have cut the traces somewhere. Check both leads for continuity and repair as necessary. By scraping off the green color and using the tiny rest of copper to connect it somehow. Maybe use an LED's leg you cut off earlier.

The one who repaired his G15 -

I hope to get the nexts steps as well!
I'm now able to open my old keyboard, but I can't figure out how to put more leds, or change the ribbon (which still works for me, but the light trough the keys is still too low)

Hugues Lajeunesse -