How to fix a dead FLIR ONE

Written By: Frank Demarest
  • Comments: 25
How to fix a dead FLIR ONE

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

6

Time Required

10 minutes

Introduction

This is a simple repair. Open the device and reconnect the battery. No parts required, no screws. (for iPhone or Android)

FLIR will not repair FLIR ONE 2G! "if the device is under warranty, we replace the unit directly as they are not being repaired. ... The one and only option left for you, is to have it repaired somewhere else as we do not support units that are out of warranty."

  1. PVIjRIT4bdIGSt1I
    PVIjRIT4bdIGSt1I
    WFs6paSNfIpaslNc

    • Open the device with the opening tool in crack along top edge of back side.

    • Continue carefully opening the device around all four edges.

  2. Ckunxo6fSkxpSUmB

    • The two halves will separate very easily and the battery connector will detach very easily.

  3. bldvTXoTuBBNfcAY

    • OPTIONAL

    • Lay two pieces of 30 gauge solid insulated wire (wire-wrap wire) onto connector. Press into the two slots to make connections.

    • CAUTION - any wire or probe larger than 30 gauge is likely to damage the connector.

    • Use a multimeter to check the battery voltage, it should be about 3.7 V.

  4. SksOBvLD4XHkqMp3

    • Carefully reconnect the battery. The two halves of the connector press together easily when properly aligned.

  5. DQZPli2uXNT3wZWY

    • Press the two halves of the case together. You might see the LED in the button light or start blinking!

  6. xxqQTb6jrxwBxTYs

    • Charge the device. A blinking LED indicates charging, a steady LED indicates done.

    • When charged, reconnect device to phone and try it!

    • You may get the message "Camera Files Not Received. Camera files could not be read, temperature accuracy and MSX alignment may be degraded." This is apparently a bug in some versions of the FLIR ONE App.

Author

Frank Demarest

Member since: 18/10/17

793 Reputation

25 comments

Totally worked for mine! I almost gave up on it after seeing the YouTube video of the guy smashing his with a hammer. In addition I used a little bit of stablilant 22 contact enhancer product. Thanks Frank!

Todd -

Cool you shared this info with other folks!

Worked for my Android device!

Dmitry G.L. -

I can easily find a 185mAh battery but not a 350mAh. Not sure if anyone knows why its shrunk?

185 seems to work fine though.

Great guide. Sooooo easy.

georgedavies@hotmail.com -

I’m just wondering the same thing : why is there only 185 mAh batteries, with the same model number, and no 350 mAh available online

matthieuv -

Same. Just going to go with the 185. If the battery life is too short, I've had luck (with the current completely dead battery) with plugging it into a small usb powerbank.

gim -

I have the Flir One Pro for Android with the same issue. I can’t figure out how to open it. I have an opening tool and there two plastic corners on the top connector face that come out. I can’t figure out how to get it open like you have.

chris -

Nice guide. I accidentally broke the plastic connector on the mainboard (the pins are still soldered). Anybody know this connector type? Thx!

Peter D. -

This is great ill try it but are there replacement batteries out there

Wesley Crutchfield -

Great job, mine stopeed working after 2years, for no reason, I reconnected it and checked it was 4.2v After reconnecting it started up again! :)

P S -

The Flir One Pro for Android can be opened by removing the two T5 Torx screws, accessible after the rubber corner bumpers are pulled out. Then remove the two Philips screws holding the USB connector backing plate and lift off the plastic cover over the camera (release a couple of plastic clips). The battery connector can be removed by lifting up the edge opposite to the wires. The battery has 3 wires so it may not be easy to find a replacement.

Albert Jeans -

Thank you. Worked for mine too. I just took it apart and touched the battery connector and it came on. With mine the battery died and it wouldn't charge or come on or anything, I thought it was gone but its working again.

Ryan G -

I also have the Flir One Pro for Android with the same issue. I ordered the battery from Amazon and followed your instructions. Opened the back with a razor blade. Snapped in the new battery. Nice guide.

jeff w -

I opened my FlirOne with ease.

But disconnecting the battery was NOT EASY.

The pins slipped out and the connector is still attached to the mainboard.

Reconnecting will be a real pain. I checked the battery in the meantime: 0.0V . So that explains a lot (= dead beyond repair).

Maybe i ‘ll try to find a matching battery as mentioned in previous comments.

Thanks for the walk-through though.

Reijndert from The Netherlands.

Reijndert de Haas -

This is the only fixing attempt I have found.

FlirOne Pro. Broke off the iPhone connector.

Is there any fixing? Parts available?

I got two plastic end caps to come off. Looks like there are some screws down in the holes. Maybe T6?

Still haven’t got to shop to see what small allen wrench or ‘smaller than T8’ driver I can find.

I don’t mind if I have to solder an extension/charge cord on to make it work.

JerS -

How can you open those security screws inside? I need to change the usb connector.. I cant find suitable driver anywhere. Is it like torx tr5, which is not available anywhere..?

Veli-Pekka Kuisma -

this didnt work. still got an orange led even with an other battery or an power supply at the battery port

Serdal piynirci -

Before repair. If the green charge LED has an “irregular” blinking pattern during charging this may be a sign of the loose battery connection. Once the connection was repaired (pressed in place) on mine the green charging LED flashed once per second and charged normally.

Note: it appears this is not the battery connector but the **Motherboard** side of the connection. Always Be gentle with your Mother —- Board.

dean g -

When unplugging the battery, the femaile plug ripped off the PC board.

The reason was that in my case, the plug of the battery was secured to the PC board with a foamy tape. I should have pried off the tape with tweezers before unplugging the battery.

conclusion: Without precision soldiering this camera is destined to the land fill.

alter einstein -

If someone is not up to the job of micro soldering or lacks the tools or equipment to do such tiny soldering work then there are repair services being sold on eBay for this unit which are a fraction of the cost of trying to replace the unit.

n3tel -

Thanks for the guide!! It would have been hard to figure out how to get case open. Battery checked out at 3.9V on DMM, plugged it back in and it turned back on. Suspecting contact corrosion, or it needed a power cycle at the battery. We’re having a cold winter and I’m finding lots of air leaks with the FLIR.

Dana Miller -

i got the flir original one the phone lays on the case like a batt pack how do you get that open

matthew still -

Good guide. I was surprised and pleased at how easy it was to open the device. I thought I had a dead IR camera module on my hands, but it seems like all I needed to do was to re-seat the battery connector.

Scott DiMiceli -

Hi, after reconnecting the bat the phone doesn't see the FlirOne. I don't see any button as reset, what can be the bug? Hi laszlo

Laci -

I reseated my connector and my first gen FLIR One came back to life too

Randy Alfresco -

When unplugging the battery the plastic jack on the board broke off. I don't think it was soldered on too well as I gently pulled on it to unplug it.

ROMzombie -