HTC One M9 Display Assembly Replacement

Written By: Rodolfo Meave
  • Comments: 20
HTC One M9 Display Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

14

Time Required

1 hour

Introduction

Does your screen have cracks or did you recently shatter your display? Use this guide to replace the display assembly on your HTC One M9. This assembly includes the touchscreen (digitizer) and the LCD panel. Click the following link for more information about obtaining these parts.

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    • The microSD card tray is located on the upper right hand side of the phone, above the volume buttons. To open the tray, insert a microSD card eject tool, or a paperclip, into the small hole in the microSD card tray.

    • Then press the tool or paperclip to eject the microSD card tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the correct orientation to the tray. The electrical connectors should be inserted first, with the microSD card face up.

    • It is normal for the microSD to sit imperfectly in the tray. The microSD card is easy to reposition within the tray.

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    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole besides the SIM card tray, located on the upper section of the left edge of the phone.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that its contacts are facing to the rear side. The tapered corner of the SIM card has to point to the outer bottom corner of the tray.

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    • Using a plastic opening pick or a spudger, gently pry and remove the cover on top of the case.

    • Remove the two 4 mm T5 Torx screws on the top of the case.

    Be sure to remove the SIM tray and memory card tray prior to removing back case! Bent mine because that step was missing.

    cameronb -

    The black plastic piece that runs across the top is very thin and is stuck on with very strong tape.

    SMcC21985 -

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    • Work a plastic opening pick around the perimeter of the device to separate the rear case from the display assembly.

    • The SIM card tray and Micro SD card tray must be removed before the back cover can be removed.

    • Be careful around the power and volume buttons, as they are fairly delicate.

    • Be careful when separating the body from the display assembly, as the rear-facing camera may be stuck to the body with adhesive.

    The SIM Card and SD Card's need to be removed before the case will come apart.

    Andrew Froude -

    I found a video showing someone using a 2 to 3 inch length scraper razor blade around the perimeter. On my second HTCM9 battery swap I found that leading with a square tipped X-Acto blade to begin the opening, and leaving the trailing, “already opened” gap “wedged” open with the scraper blade helped smoothly open from top (IR header) to bottom (micro USB charger port). A conventional spudger pries open too quickly and can damage and misshape the LCD’s soft bezel. The bezel surround is a much softer compound than the rear case. You can work the rear case loose by gently prying the back’s perimeter outward and occasionally inward as you progress. There are four tabs on the LCD assembly (i.e. nearby and under the pliers in step 5) on each side that protrude into the rear case. Push in toward the back, and pry outward on the back case seam around the vicinity of the tabs. This action provides clearance for the tab to loose from the case tab slot.

    Michael K -

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to get underneath the white and blue cable connectors and gently push them upwards to disconnect them.

    Blue coax cable.. what does it do?

    Yusuf Koçaslan -

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    • Remove the two 1.5 mm screws that secure the battery connector to the motherboard, using a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector from its socket.

    • Do not apply pressure to the socket.

    When reassembling the phone, be sure to attach the battery connector correctly before screwing it down. It has a rectangular connector that may not seat correctly if simply screwed down.

    Jay Clark -

    On my new battery the connector was not aligned precisely so the battery was not connected properly to the motherboard after screwing it in. The connector is supposed to hold on it’s own without the screws. If the connector does not hold to the motherboard without the screws, make sure that the connector is actually plugged in properly and only screw it in once it holds by itself.

    Gerrit Addiks -

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    • Peel back the Kapton tape from the ZIF connectors.

    • Use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clips on the ZIF connectors, and gently slide the cables out.

    Lift up on the white portion of the connector

    Jarred Goar -

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    • Using the tweezers, carefully lift the tape covering the electrical strip, as shown in the picture.

    • Be gentle when lifting the tape as it can tear easily.

    • Use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clip on the ZIF connector, and slide the cable out.

    Mine did not have the piece of tape.

    SMcC21985 -

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    • Peel back the Kapton tape from the remaining three ZIF connectors, then use a spudger or your fingernail to lift the hinged retainer clips on the ZIF connectors, and slide the cables out from each.

    • The third ZIF connector is mostly underneath the motherboard. When reassembling your device, make sure it is placed back underneath.

    For the featured ZIF header in step 10, which originates from under the circuit board, after liberating the yellow-clear tape I used a “Plackers” dental flosser “pointed end” to carefully lift up from under the ZIF ribbon.

    Michael K -

    the third connector what is that one for? my screen was sometimes flicker and that connector is loose from underneath the motherboard

    Sugar Bomb Gaming -

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    • Remove the dual LED flash cover with a pair of tweezers. The cover is held on with a small amount of adhesive.

    • Using a heated pair of tweezers would ease the removal of flash cover, as the heat helps weaken the adhesive .

    • Remove the cover using a minimum amount of force. The flash cover may be glued to the antenna cable(s) below.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the two antenna cables near the camera.

    • Some models of this phone will have only one antenna cable at this location.

    • Disconnect the antenna cable near the bottom right of the phone.

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    • Remove the three 4 mm T5 Torx screws that secure the motherboard.

    Great guide just one crucial warning missing! When removing the battery which is underneath the power/SD/volume cable make sure you see that and carefully remove the battery without tearing it apart! Had to learn the hard way. Fortunately it's replaceable..

    Charles Vheru -

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the vibrator out of its slot.

    • Avoid damaging the wires connecting the vibrator to the motherboard. Use the minimum amount of force.

    • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive at the bottom of the motherboard.

    • Refer to the iOpener Instructions for further info.

    • Use a plastic opening tool, or a spudger, along the edges of the case to gently pry the motherboard out of the case.

    • Gently lift the motherboard out of the case, beginning from the top corner (near the camera).

    Mine did not have any adhesive.

    SMcC21985 -

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    • Using tweezers, remove the tape from the bottom of the battery.

    • Use a spudger to carefully pry the battery up from the display assembly.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery.

    • Take extreme care not to tear the power and volume buttons flex cable

    Bei mir war der Akku fest verkebt, mit Klebesteifen ganz rechts und ganz links. Auch direkt unter dem Flachbandkabel zur Einschalt- und Lautstärketaste. Um den Akku auszubauen musste ich deshalb richtig Kraft aufwänden und das sehr empfindliche Kabel ist dabei gerissen. nachher habe ich gesehen, dass man die Leiste mit Einschalt- und Lautstärketaste hätte lösen können, sodass das Flachabndkabel nicht im Weg liegt.

    Ich empfehle das Lösen der Leiste VOR dem Ausbau des Akkus!

    Falls es doch schief geht: HTC One M9 Plus Laut Leise Ein Aus Taste Power Button Volume Flex Kabel kann man online erwerben.

    Janina Klose -

    Na perfekt, den Tipp hätte ich ganz zu Anfang gebrauchen können. Zeigt mal wieder, dass man Anleitungen erstmal komplett lesen sollte bevor man loslegt. Hab das Kabel richtig schön abgerissen weil es nirgendwo erwähnt wird. Mal sehen wie ich weiter mache, ich tendiere gerade dazu mich dem M9 geschlagen zu geben und bei Bedarf meiner Lebensgefährtin den Akku in das M8S zu setzen, passt da ja auch…nie wieder HTC.

    Alexander Bla -

    This is where I severed the sd card cable. :(

    strelm -

    Just reiterating the comments above, the battery is held on by glue strips on the left and right. I used a spludger to slowly prise the battery away from the glue on both sides, and was then able to get the battery out.

    Take extreme care near the power and volume buttons. It's better to move this out of the way while doing this.

    Bhaveet Shah -

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    • Gently pry around the display assembly to separate the display from the rest of the device.

    • After a visible gap has appeared between the screen and phone, gently pull off the screen from the casing.

    • Carefully pull the display cable through the rest of the device.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Rodolfo Meave

Member since: 14/04/15

1434 Reputation

3 comments

Took me almost 2 hours, but in my opinion it's not 'very difficult', it's not easy but it's doable for sure.

Pieter -

half this guide can be skipped, all you need to do is:

disconnect the battery

disconnect LCD flex and peel off the conductive tape

heat LCD up

Slide a thin plastic tool in under the LCD (can be anything, like the hard-ish plastic used in blister packs), there is only tape along the sides, start at the top center of the lcd. Seriously just slide it down and cut the tape (it's super strong!)

Now just lift the battery up about 3mm (on the same side as the lcd flex) and slide the lcd out, flex and all..

Total repair time is HALVED and you don't mess up the rest of the RF shielding tape.

Total of just 4 screws need to be removed!

:)

hope this helps :)

Slot1gamer -

Is it possible to use this guide to replace the front cover? I'd like to know before I get into a mess I can't get myself out of!

Michael T -