Introduction
The new duct will not come with any additional attached pieces. The old duct will need to be picked clean of parts and transferred to the new one, including rubber gaskets. You will need a Torx T15 driver. A T15 bit with separate driver will not work, as the shanks on these are too large to fit into some of the deep well holes. The driver will need to be about 4” long. Your machine may require the security version - being hollow, or having a hole in the end to mate with a pin found in anti-tamper T15 fasteners. Throughout this process, it is important to keep in mind that it is more important to not damage pieces that you are removing than it is to not damage the part you are replacing. If you are tempted to force something, make sure what may get broken is the part you are planning on throwing away anyway, rather than the part you are attempting to salvage from it. If you think you might get confused, there is no shame in taking pictures. Lots of pictures.
For clarification of terms like cyclone assembly, u-bend pipe, intake cover, exhaust cover, hose assembly, exhaust seal, entry seal, pre-filter seal, cleaner head, port plate, exhaust pipe assembly, etc., refer to online replacement parts diagrams.
Tools
Parts
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Remove dust receptacle (Cyclone Assembly) and any attachments and set aside.
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Remove the u-bend pipe, intake cover, exhaust cover and set aside.
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Remove the hose assembly by releasing it from the bottom by depressing a latch via a hole through the lower half of the duct while pulling it upward.
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Remove the screw(s) from the power switch cover plate, found on the opposite site of the duct from the power switch. The cover plate swings away from the duct at the top, then lifts up and off. Set it and the power button aside.
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Pull the motor power cord out of the channel.
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Disconnect the white wire at the connector below the power switch.
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Pull the power switch and the wall cord that should still be attached by its black wire out of the old duct.
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Pull both the black and white motor wires out of the opening they go through at the top of the duct. Note the location of this opening.
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Pull the motor wires out of the channel they are embedded into all the way to the bottom.
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Remove the oval black rubber gasket (exhaust seal) at the top of the duct and install it on the new duct. Notice that there is a notch in the gasket that must be aligned for proper installation.
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Slightly below the exhaust seal is another rectangular rubber gasket (entry seal). Transfer it to the new duct, noting it too has a notch that needs to be aligned properly.
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You do not need to transfer the bottom most seal (exhaust pre-filter seal) over to the new duct. The part that it is installed on will be transferred to the new duct and will move with it. This step is coming up soon
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Squeeze the sides of the canister latch and pull it out. Do not lose the spring behind it. Reinstall the latch and spring onto the new duct.
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Pry off the hubcap.
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Remove the metal e-clip from the shaft. This clip will attempt to fly across the room and vanish from this dimension. Do not let it.
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Pull the small metal washer and the wheel from the shaft.
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Slide the remaining wheel and shaft out and reinstall it and the other wheel back onto the new duct.
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The pivot points for the Cleaner Head assembly have two plastic Bearing Clips, the ends of which are embedded into a recess on their shafts. Pry the ends out the recess and work the clips off of the shafts.
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Remove the large plastic washers (Cleaner Head Pivot Circlips) underneath the clips.
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Remove the sole plate by rotating the three large slotted screws a quarter turn and lifting the plate off, pivoting toward the front.
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Remove the right rear screw holding the exhaust pipe assembly.
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Remove the exhaust pipe assembly. This is tricky. It kinda pulls up and to the right
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Remove the port plate. One end unsnaps then pivots out on the other end. Remember that you are disposing of the piece this is coming out of while trying to save this piece, so act accordingly.
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Remove the forward lock and spring by depressing the sides inward to disengage the pivots and then pulling out.
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Reinstall the port plate, by pivoting the widest end first, then snapping the smaller end into place.
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Remove the five remaining screws from the bottom of the unit.
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Lift the Cleaner Head assembly pivot points over the tops of the shafts.
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The old duct should now be able to come off and be disposed of. Make sure nothing removable remains on it before disposing.
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After removing the old duct from the motor, fit the new one to it.
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Replace the five screws removed earlier.
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Slide the Cleaner Head pivot points back over their pivots.
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Reinstall the plastic washers (Cleaner Head Pivot Circlips) over the pivots.
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Reinstall the Bearing Clips onto the pivots and seat the ends back into the recesses for them.
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Reinstall the Hose Assembly into the base of the duct.
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Reconnect the flexible hose for the beater bar to the port plate.
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Reinstall the sole plate that was removed in step 18.
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Starting at the bottom and working upward, press the motor power cord into its channel or groove in the new duct.
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At the top, pass the motor power cord connectors through the same hole you noted earlier, next to the switch.
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Reconnect the white wire from the motor to the white wire from the power cord.
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Reconnect the black wire from the motor to the terminal on the switch.
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Push the switch back into its slot with the plunger facing up.
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Reconnect the black wire from the motor to the terminal on the switch.
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Place the button on top of the switch
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Reinstall the switch cover plate by first engaging its tabs at the bottom into the new duct, then pivoting it into place. Replace the screw(s) that go in from other side of the new duct.
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Reinstall the u-bend pipe, intake cover, and exhaust cover.
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Reinstall the dust receptacle (Cyclone Assembly).
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You should be done.
2 comments
Many pictures needed ie. one or two for each step.
Pictures would definitely be helpful but guide was very useful regardless!
mtbm33 -