Corsair Dark Core RGB Wireless Left Click Switch Replacement

Written By: spslizer
  • Comments: 8
Corsair Dark Core RGB Wireless Left Click Switch Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

16

Time Required

1 hour

Introduction


In this guide I will show you how to replace a faulty left-click switch in your Corsair Dark Core RGB mouse. In my particular mouse, holding left-click would randomly release, known as “bouncing”. Usually the switch is to blame, requiring replacement. Before attempting this guide you should have some experience with soldering small electrical parts.

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    • Start by removing the side cover or pinky rest. This attaches via magnets

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    • Using a heat gun on low, apply heat evenly to the bottom slider pad, then gently slide an opening pick under the pad

    • If the pick does not slide under the pad easily, try warming the pad a little more

    • Remove the two T5 Torx screws that were under the slider pad

    In my case, it was a T6 torx required

    TTibbs -

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    • Using a plastic spudger, carefully pry underneath the top shell where indicated

    • Take your time and work around the area to avoid snapping the plastic latches

    • See photo for reference of where the top shell latches into the bottom shell

    • Once the right side is unlatched, slide an opening pick under the left side of the top shell to release the remaining two latches, then remove the top shell

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    • Underneath the left and right click buttons are two screws. To access these we need to remove the buttons, starting with the left

    • Gently pull up on the front of the the left-click button with your fingertips. It will hinge upwards. Remove the left-click button.

    • If it doesn't come off with slight twisting, pinch the hinge point together with tweezers to release it

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    • To remove the right-click button, squeeze the hinge point together with tweezers and pull it up and out

    • Make sure that the tweezers have a good grip when squeezing the hinge together

    • With the hinge out, push the right-click button forward slightly and remove it

    To be very clear, this button comes out opposite direction to the left click. The notch under the button is moulded the other way around to the left-click

    Jack -

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    • Remove the two pan head Phillips screws that were revealed after taking off the left and right click buttons

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    • Slide an opening pick under the back of the bottom shell, releasing the plastic latches holding it on

    • To remove, pull the top shell back slightly in order to slide it out from the clips at the front

    • Do not try attempt to release the top shell from the front as this may snap the front clips

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    • Remove the two round head Phillips screws at the bottom of the mouse, near the ribbon cable

    • If desired, the battery can be disconnected by pulling on the wires, being cautious to avoid damage to the ribbon cable. Disconnecting the battery is not necessary to replace the left-click switch

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    • Remove the round head Phillips screw, then remove the rear DPI button

    • Once the rear DPI button is removed we can remove the revealed second round head Phillips screw and then remove the front DPI button

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    • Remove the two pan head Phillips screws holding the profile switch button in

    • Unclip the palm RGB zone board; these clips are rather flexible so it should come out easily

    • Unplug the profile switch button and rear RGB zone board from the plug near the scroll wheel

    • Take your time removing the plug to avoid snapping the scroll wheel RGB zone board

    • If desired, unplug this after removing the scroll wheel RGB board

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    • Remove the pan head Phillips screw securing the scroll wheel RGB zone board

    • The scroll wheel RGB zone board is very thin. Use caution to avoid bending or snapping it

    • Slide the scroll wheel RGB zone board out of its slot. The LED and other components may catch on the top of the slot; take your time and work the board out carefully

    • Unplug the scroll wheel RGB zone board at the indicated plug

    • If you chose to leave the profile switch and palm RGB zone board plugged in, unplug them after removing the scroll wheel RGB zone board

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    • Disconnect the mouse wheel sensor cable from the main board

    • Insert the flat end of a plastic spudger underneath the rear clip of the mouse wheel

    • Using the spudger as a lever, push up on the rear clip to release it from the assembly

    • Be careful as the mouse wheel could go flying when the clip releases

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    • Remove the black round head Phillips screw holding the top board

    • Lift the top board straight off of the bottom board

    • The top board connects to the bottom board via a pin connector. Use caution to avoid bending the pins when removing and reassembling

    I had 2 additional, silver, Phillips screws attaching the PCB for the left button switch (The holes in the 2nd picture show the 3 screw locations)

    TTibbs -

    I used the 2 pan heads from the top here instead accidentally upon reassembly but there's enough clearance in the shell not to matter.

    Jack -

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    • There are a number of replacement mouse micro switches available for replacing a faulty one. The quality control on these is not the greatest so buying in at least pairs is advisable

    • The original micro switch is an Omron D2FC-F-K(50M), the 50M referring to its lifetime click expectancy

    • The replacement switches here are from a Lenovo mouse that was bundled in with a new computer. These switches are the right-click (black) and middle-click (black/white)

    • Micro switches donated from another mouse ideally should have little to no use on them, otherwise you might be doing this repair again

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    • Apply flux to where the faulty micro switch is soldered to the board

    • Using a solder sucker pump in conjunction with your soldering iron, heat up the solder and then use the sucker to remove the molten solder

    • Don't be afraid to put the solder sucker tip right up next to the soldering iron; it will only need to be in contact for a brief moment when you press the release button

    • Remove the faulty micro switch once desoldered. You may need to heat up the pads while doing so

    • Use a pair of tweezers to avoid getting burned if removing while applying the soldering iron

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    • Fit the new micro switch in place, noting the proper orientation

    • Heat up one pad at a time with your soldering iron, adding fresh solder to the pin and pad

    • Be sure that the micro switch stays in place when soldering

    • Once the solder has cooled, clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, taking care when closing up the plastic shells and noting which screws go where.

Author

spslizer

Member since: 10/03/20

1775 Reputation

4 comments

Excellent guide! Was super easy to follow.

I commented above with a couple differences I found, but I'm not sure if that was maybe due to a different release version of the mouse.

My left button works again (although I took the switch from a Logitech MX1100 that had the exact same Omron switch and the same fault with the other switch in that mouse).

TTibbs -

Solid guide thanks. I also replaced the right click since I had it open, that is on the main board so only recommended for the confident, it's fiddley but not any harder.

1. Replace the magnetic side on the mouse. This will hold the inside magnets in place in later steps

2. Unplug battery! Pull the connector, not the wires

3. Unplug the ribbon, the black part is a tiny lift-up latch to unlock the cable, gently pull

4. Remove all screws holding the plastic inner frame & battery (battery can stay glued to that)

4a. Note there's a tiny wedge light-pipe by the magnets that's now loose. remember to put that back

5. Gently unstick 2 silver tapes connecting the thumb circuit board to main. You need to put those back to reassemble

6. Remove screws in main board. Gently lift out sidewise and up.

6a. Note the bottom on/off & 2.5/BLE switches may or may not stay in place.

Reassembly == reverse steps. Take your time lining up the pieces slotting the mainboard back in.

Tip: Cut the microswitch apart if de-soldering is being a pain

Jack -

I'm having issues with my forward side button, do you happen to know what type of switchs they are and how can I replace them?

Gabriel Koch -

I'm experiencing the same issue with my side button, and Corsair support told me I was out of luck. I'd like to know what the side switches are as well so I can do a full refurb on mine.

Michael Fiorenza -