Introduction

If you need to replace the bottom conical burr, follow this guide to access it. The bottom conical burr is essential to having finely ground coffee, and if it is dull or no longer working, it needs to be replaced. For this guide you will need a Torx Security T20 Bit Screwdriver and an extension bit. To access the bottom conical burr, you will need to follow previous guides on replacing the outside metal casing. This guide is simple once you’ve finished the other.

  1. dIog3igK3rxuV5JF
    dIog3igK3rxuV5JF
    CpcRJFgdyHeWf2RN
    • Twist the top plastic container to the left counterclockwise.

    • Pull upwards to remove.

  2. lV4EVcmQbLyWEZQG
    lV4EVcmQbLyWEZQG
    vxDYfKHmSurmECcG
    GIAKVNWViAvvEWvM
    • Twist the top burr to the left counter clockwise.

    • Pull upwards to remove.

  3. L4sH1QB4FkhsdpOt
    L4sH1QB4FkhsdpOt
    j2MfpWXxBbHINWUO
    • Flip entire device upside down.

    • Remove two rubber coverings on the back of the device.

  4. 5J1To6EQiNYLYg4r
    5J1To6EQiNYLYg4r
    halWFYylkQjUBQ2O
    • Remove four 11.59mm T10 screws.

    • The screws will have small circular washers under them. Put them aside for reassembly.

    T8 Torx screws. The two screws towards the front of the machine are below those circled in red in the picture.

    Canbo -

    My housing is plastic, and was just held on by clips holding the outer part to the base, I gently pried the housing away and lifted the housing off. It’s a Capresso model 560

    panchocole -

    Mine is as well. I tried digging the “rubber washers” out but it was only scratching plastic.

    There are 5 areas you can slide a slim flathead into and gently wiggle to get the casing to slide out from the base. Be firm yet gentle.

    Joseph Hirn -

  5. m1H3IJf1Xh2jVVKt
    m1H3IJf1Xh2jVVKt
    nNeVCToDUROPHPqM
    Phc1TfxGuH2IpgNL
    • Lift the metal outside casing off the black base.

    • Flip the outside casing forward so you have access to the inside of it.

    What about the hard black plastic gasket that fits under the inside lip of the outer metal case?

    Nicole -

    What about the hard black plastic gasket that fits under the inside lip of the outer metal case?

    Nicole -

    It sits between the outer metal case & the black plastic flat ring. Please describe how to reassemble that part.

    Nicole -

  6. 4ME4LvaO4jo3WrTu
    4ME4LvaO4jo3WrTu
    IqIfsCY63aAgKP3P
    NcGltqVnUya3hRWT
    • Remove one 11.59mm T10 screw.

    • Let the green wire fall, or place somewhere so it doesn't get in the way.

    • There will be a small metal retainer and washer, put them aside for reassembly.

    T8 Torx screw.

    Canbo -

    My unit has a plastic case and a two-prong plug, so there is no ground wire.

    michael.g.safonov -

  7. MAbNGvoGZQZMm1hD
    MAbNGvoGZQZMm1hD
    Ry5NEMIki4hdKskV
    KPUwqrpmFDNxZJtX
    • Remove two 11.59mm T10 screws.

  8. RjanRGYUG2A6FVgF
    RjanRGYUG2A6FVgF
    BQXlLZrYKrjVKWb2
    • Remove the time/on switch by pulling upwards.

  9. PvGtPJOtrNGCA3PM
    PvGtPJOtrNGCA3PM
    XjZmAoLGkPmpUUog
    • Grab the edge of the plastic black ring that sits on top of the device and gently pull up to release.

    An important step BEFORE you remove the ring is to mark on the white shoot with a sharpie where the groove in the ring ends. Then when you reassemble you can line it up correctly. Otherwise the bin won't go back on,

    Gregg -

  10. AAk5KHAD4WNVQVTa
    AAk5KHAD4WNVQVTa
    3NInxELFhQiCe2qj
    • Remove the black rubber knob atop the bottom burr by gently pulling up.

  11. U2TdEVE1PUuicDWl
    U2TdEVE1PUuicDWl
    EUPLLww6eYdtYEBF
    LejOyrU3iqThrTMv
    • Partially remove one 47.20mm T20 screw.

    • The screw does not need to come out completely, it just needs to be loose enough pull the burr out of the device.

  12. QHWOCvcvRHNvA4SN
    QHWOCvcvRHNvA4SN
    auA5qeTRfOgO52Mn
    • Remove the bottom burr piece by pulling upwards.

    • There will be 3 springs and 3 metal balls under the springs, located underneath the burr. Put them aside for reassembly.

  13. YFSiZxGiatIHIJvA
    YFSiZxGiatIHIJvA
    hheTjqbmrkdp1hBU
    • Remove the loosened screw by pulling it upwards.

  14. LQ5AlJnXur2ap3wK
    LQ5AlJnXur2ap3wK
    fFSKLhiS6PSBWKuW
    ZuJYVKUEGY1YXg2i
    • Grip the plastic piece at the top of the conical burr and pull upwards to remove.

    • Grip the metal burr, and pull upwards to slide it off the plastic base.

  15. HHOqR1U5PAXkdB5J
    • This is the correct position of bearings and springs when the screw and bottom burr are removed.

    I added this image because nowhere in the guide does it show the arrangement of bearings and springs in relation to each other and the bottom burr.

    jprokos -

    I have reassembled shown as above, but now the grinder only puts out a fine ground coffee at any setting.

    Whats up?

    Scott W. Nelson -

    Fixed this by setting grinder to extra fine with beans in, grinding, then slowly working the grinder back to coarse.

    Josh Kociemba -

    Essentially, the grid is more fine when the screw is not in all the way. The grid is more coarse when it is fully tightened. If you have super fine grind all of the sudden, you may think you have the screw in all they way but in fact, the plastic parts are most likely not aligned. The plastic pieces on the between the bottom bur grinder hae slots and need to be aligned properly. (the bottom metal bur grinder is the smaller one - in the left hand of the person in picture 14) ) IF the plastics parts are not mated correctly, the grind will be very fine, and slow. When I aligned the slots properly, I was good to go. In step 15, you can see the slots on the bottom plastic piece. The top plastic piece is where the screw goes. It’s tough to align, but you’ll know you got it when you grind.

    Robbie Kalin -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Nina Mackin

Member since: 09/10/18

528 Reputation

11 comments

Step 5. In my machine there are 5 taps im bottom that has to be released with a screwdriver, before outer cap can be liftet up.

Step 9, It is essential to mark the location of black plastic ring in regards to white plastic part with holes AND in regards to ex. white square plastic part before removing part. Othervise you can’t assemble or you could destroy the burrs when you adjust the grinder to very fine grinds

dorthe -

Hi is it possible to remove the top burr? If yes how?

Thanks

Raj haraniya -

Great description of how to remove the bottom burr. Would be even greater if a new burr was available, which it is not.

Craven Morehead -

burrs were found for sale on ebay. they come in a matched set. i got a set for 30 dollars. also it seems the upper burr has to be center punched out of the plastic housing it is in but i am just making an educated guess.

gt76us -

wow - Appreciate the instructions but…….screw this….$85 for a new whole new Capresso Infinity Conical Grinder….. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000A...

bradley shefmire -

Bradley, you’re missing the point. Yes, you could just replace your old grinder with a new one, toss the old one into the “great away” , aka garbage, aka landfull, but that thinking is no longer sustainable. We’re now up to a whopping 8 billion people on the planet. We need to find more sustainable ways to continue to live on earth. It’s everyone’s business.

Judith Phillips -

In step 12 you mention "There will be 3 springs and 3 metal balls under the springs, located underneath the burr." But in step 15 the balls are on the top of the springs. So which one is right?

dany -

You can just skip to steps 10 and 11 then do 12 and 13 if you are just trying to get the lower burr out.

Fred -

The bottom burr and springs are tricky to remove because, if you are not careful when removing this set of parts, tiny ball bearings or springs may get away from you; I think that is why steps 10 and 11 are added above. If you don't have tiny fingers, have a tweezers handy for picking up and putting the ball bearings and springs back into place. Also keep a good, bright flashlight handy because the springs and bearings of my model--an Infinity 565--sit into indentations on a black round part underneath; black makes indentations difficult to locate. To reassemble the bottom burr, the bearings, and the springs, I used Aaron Deutsch's diagram: https://aarondeutsch.com/2021/11/capress... Now why does Aaron's reassembly diagram make sense? I'm not an engineer and don't have the slightest idea, but my grinder works well now that I've cleaned the deep-sitting parts.

DFR -

I agree with Dorothe - 7/15/19 above. I had not read these comments before disassembling the grinder, and during reassembly I noted the large number of possibilities regarding just WHERE to put the black ring. Looking at the images suggested correct positioning - but I couldn't be sure. I also noted the white ring with the pinholes could be rotated almost 180 degrees, and there was a notch in the white ring as well. I rotated the white ring full counterclockwise and noted the notch lined up with the indexing ball. I also found a black sharpie mark on the black ring AND a blue mark on the discharge chute. So I lined those up too. Then the bean hopper fit perfectly back into position, and all was well in the world.
Also - for my grinder (plastic) the cover is held in place by 4 snaps on the bottom - NOT screws. You'll need a flat blade screwdriver to GENTLY pry the case open.

Merlin Copper -

This video is excellent!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdZvzKb4...
The machine has the same parts inside as the Capresso !

Merlin Copper -