Asus Zen AiO Pro Z240IC Heat Sink Replacement

Written By: Jessica Lerena
  • Comments: 6
Asus Zen AiO Pro Z240IC Heat Sink Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

16

Time Required

35 minutes

Introduction

This guide will teach you how to replace the Asus Zen AiO heat sink. No prior knowledge is required.

  1. pUVTE6xVfTVXNe1S
    pUVTE6xVfTVXNe1S
    2fjylRlYbBlmDBUn

    • Use the plastic opening tool to pry off the black plastic strip at the bottom of the screen by wiggling the tool between the strip and the screen.

    • The strip is held in place with adhesive. You may hear a crackling sound as the strip is peeled off.

    • Run the opening tool slowly along the base of the screen, peeling the black strip back, until the opposite end of the screen is reached.

    On my machine, it was positively impossible to use a plastic opening tool, or even a razor to get under the plastic strip - even after heating up with a heat gun. However, I found another method that will also help prevent damage to the plastic strip: in pictures for Steps 2 and 3, you can see that under the plastic strip, next to some of the screws there are square holes in the plastic body. I was able to shape a sturdy paper clip into an “L” shape, and feed it through the right-most exhaust vent at the bottom to insert into this square hole from below. From there, you can use the paper clip to try to push the plastic strip up from below. It still required some heat from the heat gun, but eventually I was able to push the plastic strip up enough to be able to slip a razor blade under it.

    Alexander V Trofimuk -

    I too was unable to do this with the plastic tools, but used a small flat screwdriver to ply up the corned on the bottom curved corner and plastic tools form there - just left a small blemish on the plastic besel, but I can live with that.

    Andy Monaghan -

  2. aMPsRvY2HKNETwbA
    aMPsRvY2HKNETwbA
    TF33WDJBWQQEELwk

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the seven (7) 4.8 mm screws from the base of the screen.

  3. xa4SeJjuwMkMBcvE
    xa4SeJjuwMkMBcvE
    EDmVJAwM5T2RXLrE
    Lgpud6tLrTRvABqC

    • Place the computer on its back, facing up.

    • Wedge the plastic opening tool in between the screen and the bezel of the aluminum computer casing.

    • Move the tool along the entire edge of the screen with an up-and-down prying motion to loosen the screen from the casing. Do not lift the entire screen away from the computer yet.

    • The screen is held in place by plastic tabs. These will create a popping sound when loosened.

    • The screen assembly will flex as it is pried off. Do not bend the screen too far or the glass screen could shatter.

    It’s a lot easier to use two suction cups on the bottom corners, and then slide some cards in between the screen and the case.

    Alec -

  4. tICyUXbxyVOAhas6

    • Lift the screen from the bottom edge by about 6 inches. Prop it open with one hand.

    • Look inside the computer and locate five (5) cables that connect the embedded components of the screen (camera, microphone, etc.) to the rest of the computer.

    I have this model, but I only found 4 cables, 2 were ribbon cables. Just look inside and unplug anything that is connecting the display to the motherboard.

    Alec -

    Same here my model just had 4 cables.

    Andy Monaghan -

  5. JUY4VvGBnIVNwW3d
    JUY4VvGBnIVNwW3d
    aRTHudZXfUqa3V5o
    lP1CPJJBaGvlOPNE

    • Remove the two (2) cables that are connected to the computer by white, rectangular terminal blocks by pulling straight out on the plug.

    • The cables and wires in these steps are delicate; do not tug on the individual wires that make up each cable.

  6. DFGssbhdtTbRYiVU
    DFGssbhdtTbRYiVU
    eqEi2wuphkOGYOvK
    3DbwaluRAuXgdnYS

    • Use a finger to lift the plastic locking flaps that hold the remaining three (3) ribbon cables in place.

    • Remove the cables from their terminals by slipping them away from their connectors.

    • The black line on the ribbon cables mark the connecting region. When reinstalling, insert the cable up to this line so the locking flap covers it.

    When re-connecting take great care to ensure the ribbon cables are square and flat - I had to take mine apart again to re-seat one as the screen was blank - worked fine once re-seated properly.

    Andy Monaghan -

  7. kRQjJNPkPYANrTTI
    kRQjJNPkPYANrTTI
    iUtBhXwJQffWvYMd
    VwBZCGTuKFLUoJK3

    • Locate the WLAN card in the upper left hand corner of the computer.

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the 3.2 mm screw on the top of the WLAN card.

  8. xjyZZAC2VAePLFqy
    xjyZZAC2VAePLFqy
    NDrFYEP1XXfXfEP3
    2WZk3gy3QZqInIyj

    • Pull out the WLAN card from its socket.

    • Remove the two antennae wires from the WLAN card by pulling up on the coaxial connectors.

  9. THx1BKG2pVIRFN2j
    THx1BKG2pVIRFN2j
    nxYmHUGD6YlRT3xt

    • Use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the three (3) 4.8 mm screws from the fan unit.

    • Remove the cable connecting the fan to the motherboard by pulling the cable out of its socket.

  10. eGiSaK5Vhj4NsSXM

    • Remove the fan by peeling off the black electrical tape holding it against the heat sink vents.

  11. Bl3WDtrDIbLYsAad

    • Remove the six (6) ribbon cables by lifting up on the plastic locking tabs and then slipping the cables out of their sockets.

    • Remove the other two (2) cables by pulling straight out on the white connectors.

    • One ribbon cable is hidden beneath black tape.

    • The motherboard is ESD sensitive. Limit your contact with the green circuit board surface and electrical components. When handling the board, hold it by the edges.

    • The black lines on the ribbon cables mark the connecting region. When reinstalling, insert the cables up to this line so the locking flap covers it.

  12. FFZvZIYkG6tqyJuk
    FFZvZIYkG6tqyJuk
    K2ofmFhW14DaDRpw

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove nine (9) 3.2 mm screws from the motherboard.

    • Two of the screws near the middle of the board are hidden beneath padding.

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the one (1) 4.8 mm screw directly below the copper heat sink channel.

  13. YmIcNPdDayrCFbTc
    YmIcNPdDayrCFbTc
    LUwIuCCncyXdVKoU

    • Lift the motherboard just enough to dismount it from the plastic pegs that hold it in place.

    • Rotate the motherboard towards yourself while supporting the heat sink by pivoting on its bottom edge.

  14. bqUO5rTOdeWpsQOl
    bqUO5rTOdeWpsQOl
    wucQLuCLOkIOVPTw

    • Remove the SATA cable on the opposite side of the motherboard by pulling directly up from the board.

  15. OPUO6rLHAEdv6S2R
    OPUO6rLHAEdv6S2R
    cvgb5fgLJknO3UJG

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to loosen the four (4) large silver screws evenly in the order of the numbers engraved next to each screw.

    • Use a Phillips # 0 to loosen the other four (4) 2.4 mm screws evenly in the order engraved on the copper next to each screw.

    • Repeat the last two bullets until all the larger silver screws make a clicking sound and the 2mm screws are removed.

    • The silver screws cannot be completely removed.

    • Peel away the black tape between the RAM shield and the heat sink.

    • When reattaching the heat sink to the motherboard, make sure to tighten the screws a little bit at a time, in the same order as before, until they are all snug.

  16. KfWrClAdxEBIeaVL
    KfWrClAdxEBIeaVL
    eNF6QSCcFeOBXVCw

    • Remove the heat sink by lifting up.

    • During reassembly, make sure to use a fresh application of thermal paste. Refer to the following guide: How to Apply Thermal Paste

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Jessica Lerena

Member since: 02/10/17

630 Reputation

0 comments