Introduction
This guide will teach you how to replace the Ethernet/LAN board to restore internet or device connectivity. No prior knowledge is required.
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Use the plastic opening tool to pry off the black plastic strip at the bottom of the screen by wiggling the tool between the strip and the screen.
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Run the opening tool slowly along the base of the screen, peeling the black strip back, until the opposite end of the screen is reached.
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Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the seven (7) 4.8 mm screws from the base of the screen.
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Place the computer on its back, facing up.
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Wedge the plastic opening tool in between the screen and the bezel of the aluminum computer casing.
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Move the tool along the entire edge of the screen with an up-and-down prying motion to loosen the screen from the casing. Do not lift the entire screen away from the computer yet.
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Lift the screen from the bottom edge by about 6 inches. Prop it open with one hand.
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Look inside the computer and locate five (5) cables that connect the embedded components of the screen (camera, microphone, etc.) to the rest of the computer.
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Remove the two (2) cables that are connected to the computer by white, rectangular terminal blocks by pulling straight out on the plug.
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Use a finger to lift the plastic locking flaps that hold the remaining three (3) ribbon cables in place.
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Remove the cables from their terminals by slipping them away from their connectors.
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Disconnect the ribbon cable from the side that has "MB" labeled on it by lifting up on the black locking flap and pulling the cable out of its terminal.
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Remove the four (4) 3.2 mm screws with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
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Lift the board gently upwards to remove it from the base of the computer.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
On my machine, it was positively impossible to use a plastic opening tool, or even a razor to get under the plastic strip - even after heating up with a heat gun. However, I found another method that will also help prevent damage to the plastic strip: in pictures for Steps 2 and 3, you can see that under the plastic strip, next to some of the screws there are square holes in the plastic body. I was able to shape a sturdy paper clip into an “L” shape, and feed it through the right-most exhaust vent at the bottom to insert into this square hole from below. From there, you can use the paper clip to try to push the plastic strip up from below. It still required some heat from the heat gun, but eventually I was able to push the plastic strip up enough to be able to slip a razor blade under it.
Alexander V Trofimuk -
I too was unable to do this with the plastic tools, but used a small flat screwdriver to ply up the corned on the bottom curved corner and plastic tools form there - just left a small blemish on the plastic besel, but I can live with that.
Andy Monaghan -